Home Comfort Insights from Connecticut's Insulation Experts

If you live in an older home in Connecticut, chances are you've experienced it:

• The unmistakable creak of a floorboard every time someone walks upstairs.
• The neighbor's leaf blower sounding like it's in your living room.
• Your kid's late-night Xbox session leaking through the walls.

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Yup. Old Connecticut homes are charming—until they start shouting at you from every direction.

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Let’s break down why they’re so noisy, and what you can actually do to get some peace and quiet.

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Why Are Older Homes in Connecticut So Loud?

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1. They Weren't Built With Soundproofing in Mind

Before the 1980s, insulation standards were wildly inconsistent, and no one was thinking about decibel ratings. Homes were built to last, sure, but not to keep sound from bouncing through every wall, floor, and duct.

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2. Empty Wall Cavities

Many homes built before the energy crises of the '70s have wall cavities with little or no insulation. That means sounds travel freely between rooms, floors, and even outside. Ever wonder why your teenager's music sounds louder in the hallway than in their actual room? That’s why.

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3. Hard Surfaces Everywhere

Hardwood floors, plaster walls, thin doors—they all reflect sound rather than absorb it. Combine that with minimal insulation and you've basically got an echo chamber.

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4. HVAC and Plumbing Noise

Ductwork and pipes in older homes often aren’t isolated. That means your heating system or a flushing toilet can broadcast noise across the house like it’s got a microphone.

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5. Squeaky Floors and Loose Framing

Connecticut homes go through wild weather swings. Over time, the wood expands, contracts, and shifts—leading to squeaks, creaks, and pops that remind you your home has... character.

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How to Fix It (Without Losing the Charm)

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1. Dense-Pack Cellulose in the Walls

Dense-pack cellulose isn't just great for thermal insulation—it also significantly reduces sound transmission. It fills the wall cavity fully, blocking airborne sound from traveling through. This can be a game-changer in old homes with hollow walls.

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2. Add Rugs, Curtains, and Soft Furnishings

No, this isn’t a design blog, but it matters: sound needs soft surfaces to absorb it. Add a thick rug to a hardwood hallway or heavy curtains over windows. Even bookshelves can double as sound barriers.

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3. Seal the Gaps

Air gaps = sound gaps. Use acoustic caulk around outlets, baseboards, and windows. Weatherstrip old doors. Add door sweeps. These little details make a surprising difference.

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4. Swap Out Hollow-Core Doors

Many older homes have doors that are essentially cardboard inside. Replacing them with solid-core doors is one of the easiest ways to stop sound from room to room.

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5. Soundproof the Ceiling or Floor Between Levels

This one’s more advanced, but if you’re doing a reno, it’s worth it. Options include:

• Dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass batts between joists
• Resilient channels or sound isolation clips
• Double layers of drywall with Green Glue between them

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Each step helps decouple sound vibrations so they don’t carry.

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6. Box in Noisy Ductwork or Pipes

If your HVAC system sounds like a jet engine, or your plumbing makes ghost noises, consider boxing in the runs with insulation and drywall. It won’t silence them completely, but it’ll dull the roar.

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Final Thoughts

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Old Connecticut homes have a lot going for them: craftsmanship, character, and history. But they also come with creaks, leaks, and sound transfer that modern homes are better at managing.

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The good news? You don’t have to gut your house to make it quieter. A few smart upgrades can turn your charming echo chamber into a peaceful retreat.

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If you're not sure where to start, we can help. At Nealon Insulation, we've worked in homes up and down the Connecticut shoreline, and we know the quirks that come with the territory. We’ll walk through your home, give honest recommendations, and tailor a solution that fits your space—and your ears.

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👉 Schedule your free consultation with Nealon Insulation and let’s bring the volume down.

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P.s. Calculate how much R-Value your home needs

If you're building a new home, adding an extension, or undertaking a major renovation in Connecticut, you've likely encountered the term REScheck. It might sound like bureaucratic jargon, but understanding REScheck is crucial for ensuring your project complies with energy codes and avoids costly setbacks.

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What Is a REScheck?

REScheck stands for Residential Energy Services Check. It's a software tool developed by the U.S. Department of Energy to help builders, designers, and homeowners demonstrate that their construction projects meet the energy efficiency requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC).

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In simpler terms? A REScheck report verifies that your home’s design includes adequate insulation, efficient windows and doors, and proper air sealing to meet or exceed energy codes. Think of it like your home’s energy performance report card — and you want to pass.

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When Is a REScheck Required in Connecticut?

In Connecticut, REScheck is commonly required for:

• New residential constructions
• Additions that increase the conditioned (heated or cooled) space
• Major renovations affecting the building envelope (walls, roof, windows, doors)

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Local building departments often mandate a REScheck report as part of the permit application process to ensure your project meets the state’s energy code. Best bet? Check with your local building authority before breaking out the blueprints.

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Why Is REScheck Important?

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1. Ensures Code Compliance

A REScheck report gives you documented proof that your project meets Connecticut’s energy code. It’s often required to get permits and pass inspections — and skipping it can lead to big delays.

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2. Optimizes Energy Efficiency

REScheck evaluates your home’s design and identifies areas to improve efficiency. That means lower energy bills, better comfort, and fewer complaints about drafty rooms down the line.

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3. Facilitates Trade-Offs

Here’s where it gets good — REScheck lets you play with the numbers. Say your walls are above code with extra insulation? Then you may be allowed to use slightly less insulation in the attic. This kind of flexibility can save you money on materials and labor while still meeting overall efficiency goals.

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4. Supports Incentive Programs

Complying with energy codes through REScheck may make your project eligible for rebates and incentives. In Connecticut, EnergizeCT offers programs that can help offset the cost of insulation, high-efficiency HVAC systems, and more.

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How REScheck's Can Actually Help You (Not Just Limit You)

Most folks hear “code compliance” and think: red tape. But REScheck isn’t just about putting up walls (literally or figuratively). It’s actually a smart way to unlock more cost-effective design options while still meeting or exceeding energy efficiency standards.

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REScheck looks at the whole building system — not just your insulation. It considers:

• Window performance (U-value and SHGC)
• Heating and cooling systems
• Air leakage
• Roof/ceiling insulation
• Wall and floor insulation
• Foundation type

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So instead of requiring every single part of the home to hit a strict R-value target, it lets you balance things out. Maybe you go all-in on a high-efficiency heat pump or better windows — then the software might allow lower insulation values in other areas, without violating code.

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This is huge for Connecticut builders and homeowners, where construction costs are no joke. REScheck offers a real path to code compliance with a dose of flexibility, making projects more affordable without cutting corners.

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Is One Type of Insulation Better for REScheck?

Great question—and the answer is: it depends on your strategy. REScheck doesn’t play favorites with insulation materials. It just looks at overall performance, meaning how well your entire building envelope holds heat in winter and keeps it out in summer.

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That said, here’s how different types of insulation can impact your REScheck score:

• Spray Foam: Offers top-notch R-values and air sealing in one go, which can significantly boost your REScheck performance—especially in tight spots like rim joists, cathedral ceilings, and crawl spaces. If you’re trying to make up for less-efficient windows or minimal wall space, spray foam is a power move.
• Cellulose: High-density and great for filling gaps, especially in retrofits or irregular framing. It performs very well in attics and walls, and when combined with proper air sealing, it holds its own in REScheck reports.
• Fiberglass: More affordable and easier to install in large open cavities. It can pass REScheck just fine when paired with air sealing and efficient windows—but it needs to be installed properly (no gaps, compression, or air leaks).

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Bottom line? No single insulation type is “better” for REScheck. It’s about the right mix for your design. And because REScheck allows trade-offs, you’ve got options to get creative without sacrificing performance—or blowing your budget.

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Final Thoughts

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Navigating Connecticut’s energy codes doesn’t have to be a headache. REScheck is your friend, not your foe — especially when you know how to use it right.

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Whether you're building from scratch or tackling a major renovation, incorporating REScheck early can save you time, money, and stress — and get your project approved faster.

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👉 Need help running a REScheck or figuring out your insulation strategy? Reach out to us here. No pressure. Just solid advice from a team that knows how to make building smarter a whole lot easier.

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If you’ve ever gotten a quote for insulation work and thought, “Where is this number even coming from?” — you’re not alone.

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We get it. Home improvement pricing can feel like a black box. So let’s open it up. This post breaks down how insulation pricing works — at least for us at Nealon Insulation — so you can make better-informed decisions about your home.

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The Building Blocks of a Quote

Every insulation project has three core pricing components:

1. Materials
   
   
2. Labor
   
   
3. Margin (which covers overhead as well as a modest profit for us… we gotta eat too!)
   
   

Let’s break each one down.

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1. Materials: What You’re Putting in the Walls (or Attic or Basement)

First up: materials. This part’s pretty cut and dry.

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Based on the size of the space and the type of insulation you need — fiberglass batts, spray foam, cellulose insulation, etc. — we estimate how much product is needed based on the square footage and necessary R-value which is essentially measured by thickness in inches.

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We know the cost per bag, batt, or board foot (square foot by inch) of material. Multiply that by the quantity needed, and you’ve got your material cost!

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Simple as that! It’s transparent and straightforward — no magic here…

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But next come’s the trickier part…

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2. Labor: Who’s Installing It, and How Long will It Take

This is where things start to vary a bit more.

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We do our best estimate how many total hours it will take to complete the job, from setup to cleanup. Then we multiply that by the average hourly labor cost across our crew. Our goal is to be as efficient as possible with this to ensure that you don’t get overcharged and everyone comes out a winner. 

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But it’s important to note labor isn’t just the physical act of installing insulation. It includes things like:

• Driving to your property
  
  
• Setting up tools and safety gear
  
  
• Protecting your home’s surfaces
  
  
• Cleaning up so you’re not left with a mess
  
  

If your home is older, has tight crawlspaces, requires extra prep, or needs just a little bit more concentration and caution then of course the labor hours go up.

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And on top of that in this line of work sometime’s we’re getting into spaces or walls where we don’t even know what we’re going to find until we’re in there so sometimes contingencies need to be built in. 

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3. Margin: Why the Final Price Isn’t Just Materials + Labor

Here’s the part most people don’t talk about — the markup… 

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After we calculate materials and labor, we add a target margin. This isn’t just profit for us. It also covers all the other costs of running a business:

• Insurance and licenses
  
  
• Vehicles and gas
  
  
• Payroll taxes
  
  
• Tools and equipment maintenance
  
  
• Office support
  
  
• Marketing and scheduling
  
  
• Training, safety, and more!
  
  

But I promise we’re not greedy! Our goal is for you, the customer, to get real value for the price. We don’t aim for crazy margins. We aim for healthy, sustainable ones — the kind that keep good, high quality people employed and happy to help you with your problems. 

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Why Some Quotes Are Lower (or Higher)

If you see a big discrepancy in pricing, it could be because:

• They’re cutting corners on material quality
  
  
• They’re underestimating labor time
  
  
• They’re not factoring in overhead (and may not be around next year)
  
  
• Or maybe they’re just a more efficient company
  
  

If a quote is higher, it could be due to a company’s inefficiencies, higher overhead, maybe just plain greed… or maybe they’re higher quality and doing things the right way. 

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Everything’s relative here so it’s hard to know, just make sure you’re working with someone you can trust and know what you’re paying for. We do have ideas on how to find the right insulation contractor.

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Does It Cost More to Insulate an Attic vs. a Basement vs. Walls?

Short answer? Yep. Different parts of your home come with different challenges — and that affects both labor and sometimes material choices.

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Here’s the breakdown:

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🏠 Attics

Attics are often the most cost-effective to insulate.
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They’re usually wide open, easy to access, and fast to blow insulation into — especially with cellulose. That means lower labor costs per square foot, even if you’re aiming for a higher R-value (like R49–R60).

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That said, if your attic is tight, filled with old insulation that needs removing, or has tricky venting and baffle issues — costs will go up.

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🧱 Walls

Walls are a whole different beast.
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If they’re open (like during a renovation), batt insulation is straightforward. But retrofit wall insulation? That involves drilling, dense-packing, and sometimes fishing insulation behind wires and braces.

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More effort = more time = more cost.

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🧊 Basements & Crawlspaces

Basements and crawlspaces are the wild cards.
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Low clearance? Dampness? Old stone foundations? All that slows things down. Sometimes we need to build out framing, deal with moisture barriers, or switch to spray foam to get proper air sealing.

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It’s not always more expensive, but it’s usually more finicky, which affects both the labor and setup.

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Bottom line:
Not all parts of your home cost the same to insulate — and that’s not us being inconsistent. It’s just different conditions needing different approaches. When we give you a quote, we’re factoring in the real-world challenges of each area so you don’t end up with surprises halfway through.

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Final Thoughts

Insulation isn’t glamorous, but it’s one of the best investments you can make in your home’s energy efficiency, comfort, and long-term health.

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We believe in doing things right — pricing included. When you get a quote from us, it’s built through real time, effort, and deep thought to ensure we’re providing the highest quality work for the best value:
Materials + Labor + Margin = Total Price

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It’s not rocket science. It’s just good business.

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And when it’s done right, everybody wins.

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👉 Free consultation. No pressure. Just honest advice.

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Let’s be honest—insulation isn’t sexy. It’s not something you show off to your neighbors. It’s not your renovated Kitchen with marble finishing or a beautiful new stone deck with a built in grill and smoker. 

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No one’s coming over to crack open beers and admire the craftsmanship… “Wow, check out that R-49 blown cellulose insulation! There’s no lumps or anything!” 

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But… if you own a home in Connecticut, insulation might be the most boring way to save yourself the most money. You won’t get oooh’s and aaah’s but you will get lower energy bills, a more comfortable home, and fewer fights over the thermostat.

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But I know what you’re now asking yourself… how much can I really save? How long does insulation take to pay for itself?

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🥁🥁🥁

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The Short Answer: 2 to 5 Years…

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The Even Shorter Answer: It depends! But it does works

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But definitely don’t take my word for it. What do I know, I’ve only been doing this for 40 years… And I’ve been told I’m biased or something… 

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Let’s see what the Research Says

According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and Energize CT, insulation and air sealing will shave 15–30% off your heating and cooling bills. In Connecticut, where winters are long and heating oil is basically liquid gold, that adds up!

• The average Connecticut household spends around $2,000 per year on heating and cooling combined (source: EIA.gov).
  
  
• So let’s do some quick math!
  
  • If you saved 20% on your heating and cooling bills that’s $400/year back in your pocket.
  • If your insulation project costs around ~$2,000 that’s about a 5 year payback 
  • If you save closer to 30%...that’s less than a three and a half year payback
  • After that it’s just continuous money in your pocket for the next 25-30 years until you need another upgrade

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But like I said before… it depends! 

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Not to brag or anything but we’ve upgraded homes in which the payback period was fewer than 2 years!

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Add in Connecticut’s Home Energy Solutions program, and it gets better. The program can often cover up to 75% of the cost through rebates and incentives.

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Facts, Myths, and We-Just-Don’t-Know 

There’s a lot of information floating around out there...let’s break it down. 

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✅ Facts

• Insulation reduces energy bills. 
  • This is backed by the DOE, ENERGY STAR, and pretty much anyone who’s upgraded their insulation and compared their before and after their utility bill afterward.
    
    

• Air sealing matters. A lot. 
  • Think of it like this: insulation is your sweater. Air sealing is zipping up your jacket. Both are good. Together, they’re great. You can air seal and insulate with spray foam.
    
    

• Rebates are available. 
  • EnergizeCT offers rebates and sometimes even 75% coverage for audits and weatherization. Here’s the link.
    
    

• Older homes in CT are often wildly under-insulated. 
  • Especially if they were built before 1980. Some wall cavities are literally empty.
    
    

❌ Myths

• “Insulation only helps me in the winter.” 
  • Nope. It helps in summer too by keeping heat out and ensuring more efficient AC use. Ever been in an attic in July? If so, you get it.
    
    

• “If I have insulation, I’m good.”‍
  • Maybe. But maybe not. A lot of homes have insulation that’s:
    • Just not enough
    • Poorly installed
    • Degraded over time
      
      

• “It’s too expensive to be worth it.” 
  • With rebates and long-term savings, insulation’s one of the few home upgrades that pays for itself—and then keeps paying.
    
    

🤷‍♂️ We Just Don’t Know

• Exactly how fast your home will pay it back.‍
  • We need to see the place. Every home is different. We’ll look at square footage, current insulation levels, energy bills, and then we can estimate savings and rebates.
    
    

• How much longer Connecticut winters will get.‍
  • Between polar vortexes and mild Decembers, who knows. But insulation helps regardless.
    
    

• Why builders didn’t insulate better in the '60s and '70s.‍
  • Your guess is as good as ours. Maybe they just loved single-pane windows and cold feet.
    
    

Wait… What Even Is R-Value?

Good question — and one most folks are too embarrassed to ask. So here’s the short answer:

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R-value measures how well insulation resists heat flow.
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The higher the R-value, the better your insulation keeps warm air in during winter and hot air out during summer. Think of it like SPF for your house — R13 is the bare minimum, R49 is like putting your house in the shade with a margarita.

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Here in Connecticut, attics are supposed to be R49 to R60, depending on your town and how aggressive you want to be about energy savings. That usually means 13 to 16 inches of cellulose or fiberglass. (Spoiler: a lot of older homes don’t even have half that.)

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And here’s where it gets even more important:
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If your insulation is compressed, damp, or full of gaps, it loses R-value. That means you're paying for something that isn’t doing its job — like a winter coat with holes in the lining.

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Final Thoughts

Insulation’s not flashy. It’s not fun to talk about at parties (...actually it is for us). But in terms of bang-for-your-buck, it’s one of the best home improvements you can invest in.

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Here’s what you get:

• Real savings
  
  
• Real comfort
  
  
• A more efficient, quieter, and healthier home
  
  

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If you’re in Connecticut, you’ve got access to generous incentives. We’ll even help you apply for them. So if your house is cold, drafty, or your energy bills are making you sweat—get in touch.

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👉 Get in touch with Nealon Insulation. We’ll take a look, give you honest feedback, and let you know if it makes sense. No pressure. No BS. Just real talk, real results, and real insulation.

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P.s Fiberglass insulation can be a cheaper alternative to upgrade insulation

Let’s start with this: insulation isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s one of the most cost-effective ways to cut down on your energy bills year-round. Whether you’re battling a New England nor’easter or a brutal summer heatwave, your insulation is doing the quiet, thankless job of keeping conditioned air where it belongs: inside your home.‍

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But how does it actually save you money? Let’s break it down.

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1. Insulation Slows Down Heat Transfer

Heat moves in and out of your house constantly—through walls, ceilings, floors, and anywhere it finds a weak spot. This process is called heat transfer, and without good insulation, your home is bleeding energy like a sieve. In winter, warm air escapes. In summer, heat pours in. Insulation acts like a barrier, slowing that process down so your HVAC system doesn’t have to work overtime to keep up.

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Less work for your furnace or AC = less energy used = lower utility bills.

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2. Insulation Keeps Temperatures Stable

Ever notice how some rooms feel freezing while others are sweltering? That’s usually a sign of poor insulation or air leaks. Ideally, rooms in the same house shouldn’t differ by more than 2–3°F. If you're seeing 5 degrees or more between rooms, it’s a red flag—your home likely has insulation gaps or airflow issues.

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When you insulate properly—especially your attic, walls, garage and basement—you even out those swings and stop playing thermostat whack-a-mole. Want to layer your savings? Combine good insulation with simple, low-cost hacks to stay warm in winter—like these 10 free or cheap ways to stay warm.

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3. It Reduces HVAC Runtime

Your heating and cooling systems cycle on and off all day. But the better your home holds its temperature, the less often those systems need to run. Over time, this adds up to serious savings—not just on energy, but also on maintenance and equipment lifespan. Well-insulated homes put less wear and tear on HVAC units, meaning fewer breakdowns and a longer system life.

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4. It's a One-Time Investment That Pays Off For Years

Insulation isn’t a band-aid fix—it’s a long-term upgrade. Whether you’re using spray foam, batts, or blown-in cellulose, you’re making a one-time investment that keeps paying you back every month.

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And if you’re looking to insulate finished walls without tearing everything apart, we’ve got a method for that too. It’s called drill and plug, and it lets us dense-pack cellulose insulation from the outside of your home—sealing up energy loss while leaving everything looking untouched. It’s one of our go-to moves for older homes with empty wall cavities.

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The Bottom Line

If your energy bills are creeping higher and your home still doesn’t feel comfortable, your insulation might be the culprit. Fixing it won’t just make your house cozier—it’ll put money back in your pocket every single month.

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Want to see what better insulation could do for your home?
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👉 Get in touch with Nealon Insulation. We’ll take a look, give it to you straight, and help you lower your bills the smart way.

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P.s. How much insulation does your home need?

Most people think insulation is the whole game when it comes to making a home energy-efficient. It’s a big part, sure—but if your house is leaking air like a drafty old barn, insulation alone isn’t going to cut it. That’s where air sealing comes in.

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Think of insulation like a warm winter coat. Now imagine that coat has the zipper wide open and the wind’s whipping through. Not so cozy, right? Air sealing is the zipper. It keeps the conditioned air inside where it belongs—and the outside air out.

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What Is Air Sealing?

Air sealing is the process of closing up all the tiny gaps, cracks, and holes in your home’s building envelope. These leaks might be around windows, doors, plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, recessed lights, or even your foundation. You don’t see them—but your energy bill sure feels them.

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If you’ve ever walked into a room and it feels 10 degrees colder than the rest of the house, chances are you’ve got air leaks. Same goes for musty smells, moisture problems, or wild swings in your heating and cooling bills.

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Why Air Sealing Matters

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💸 Lower Energy Bills

Air leaks are one of the biggest causes of energy loss in the average home. Heated or cooled air escapes through those gaps, and your HVAC system has to work harder (and burn more money) to keep up. Air sealing can cut heating and cooling costs by up to 20% in some homes.

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Want to understand how heat actually escapes your house? Check out our blog on How Does My Home Lose or Gain Heat?

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🌡️ More Consistent Temperatures

Ever notice that one room is always too hot in the summer or freezing in the winter? Air leaks are usually to blame. When you seal those gaps, airflow becomes controlled and consistent—no more temperature rollercoasters from room to room.

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It’s especially important in the attic—one of the biggest culprits for leaks.

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Our blog on blown-in insulation can help you identify the right insulation for your attic.

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💧 Moisture Control

Air leaks don’t just move air—they move moisture. In the winter, warm indoor air rises and escapes through cracks in the attic. That moisture-laden air hits cold surfaces and condenses, which can lead to mold, mildew, and rot. Air sealing helps keep moisture where it belongs—and keeps your home healthier.

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🧊 Works Hand-in-Hand with Insulation

Insulation slows down the transfer of heat, but it can’t stop moving air. That’s why insulation without air sealing is like buying an expensive cooler with the lid cracked open. You need both.

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If your home feels drafty or your bills are creeping up, it could be a sign your insulation isn’t pulling its weight either. Here’s How to Tell If Your Home Is Under-Insulated

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What’s the Air Sealing Process Actually Like?

Glad you asked.

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Before we blow in any cellulose, we suit up and hunt down the leaks. Because once you’ve got 14 inches of fluffy insulation in the attic, going back to plug those gaps is like diving into a ball pit with a caulk gun—only sweatier and way less fun. Unless you enjoy spelunking through cellulose, seal it first.

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🔧 What We Use

Our go-to is polyurethane insulating foam applied with a standard foam gun. It expands to fill cracks, cures fast, and sticks like a champ. Around wiring, pipes, light fixtures, and top plates? That’s where it shines.

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And in basements—especially along the sill plate—we break out the big guns: rodent-resistant foam. This stuff is dense, durable, and keeps out everything from cold drafts to overly curious critters.

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🔍 Where We Look

🏠 In the Attic:

• Gaps between drywall and top plates (where your ceiling meets the walls)
• Around recessed lights and old light fixtures
• Plumbing stacks and vent penetrations
• HVAC ductwork exits
• Chimney chases and flue cutouts
• Attic hatches and pull-down stairs (huge culprits for drafts)

🧊 In the Basement or Crawlspace:

• Along the perimeter sill plate and rim joists
• Gaps where concrete meets wood framing
• Around plumbing, electrical, and dryer vent exits in the basement
• Unsealed crawlspace access points

🧱 Inside Walls (Especially in Older Homes):

• Behind electrical outlets and switch boxes
• Uninsulated wall cavities (common in pre-1980s construction)
• Openings around windows and door frames
• Balloon framing or open chaseways that connect floor levels

🚗 In Attached Garages:

• Shared walls between the garage and the house (often under-insulated)
• Ceilings below bedrooms or living areas
• Gaps where HVAC, water lines, or electrical runs into the home
• Drafty garage-to-house entry doors

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These are the usual suspects. Seal them up and you’re halfway to a tighter, more efficient home.

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Ready to Seal Up Your Home?

At Nealon Insulation, we don’t just stuff walls with insulation and call it a day. We take a full-building approach, starting with air sealing the key trouble spots. It’s one of the best bang-for-your-buck upgrades you can make to improve comfort, cut energy bills, and keep your home protected year-round.

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👉 Contact Nealon Insulation to schedule an energy assessment and see where your home is leaking energy. We’ll get you zipped up tight.

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P.s. We do all types of insulation

• Cellulose Insulation
• Fiberglass Insulation
• Spray Foam Insulation