What Is the Best Attic Insulation?

If you’ve ever walked into your basement after a rainy week and caught a whiff of that musty, damp smell—you already know why moisture resistance matters. Insulation isn’t just about keeping warm in the winter or cool in the summer. It’s also your home’s first line of defense against hidden water damage, mold, and air quality issues.

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That brings us to a common showdown in the insulation world: blown-in fiberglass vs spray foam moisture resistance. Both materials get tossed around as “energy-saving” upgrades, but only one holds its ground when things get wet.

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In this post, we’re breaking down how each insulation type performs when moisture enters the picture—whether it’s humid air, condensation, or a good ol’ New England nor’easter working its way through your walls. We’ll compare absorption rates, mold resistance, and where each one works best in a real Connecticut home.

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Let’s get into it.

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Understanding Moisture Resistance in Insulation

When we talk about moisture resistance in insulation, we mean how well a material handles water—whether from a leaky roof, humid summer air, or condensation inside your walls.

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Why does that matter? Because moisture is the silent killer of comfort and efficiency. It soaks into your insulation, wrecks its R-value, invites mold, and can even rot out your framing. If your insulation acts like a sponge, you’re basically paying to heat or cool a pile of mildew.

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Good moisture resistance means:

• No soggy insulation dragging down performance
• Less risk of mold and mildew
• Better indoor air quality
• A longer-lasting thermal barrier

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Whether you’re insulating an attic in Guilford or a crawl space in Old Saybrook, understanding how different materials deal with moisture can save you a serious headache down the line.

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Blown-In Fiberglass: Pros and Cons for Moisture

Blown-in fiberglass is the fluffy white stuff you’ll see in attics or walls—lightweight, quick to install, and relatively affordable. But here’s the catch: it’s not built to handle moisture.

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The Moisture Problem

Fiberglass doesn’t exactly invite mold, since it’s not organic. But it does absorb and hold moisture, which creates the perfect damp, musty environment mold loves. Once it gets wet, fiberglass insulation:

• Loses R-value (up to 50%)
• Slumps or settles in cavities
• Traps moisture against wood framing
• Can make your attic or basement smell like a gym bag

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We’ve seen it all over Connecticut—moisture issues with fiberglass insulation are common in homes with poor air sealing, roof leaks, or just a little too much summer humidity.

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Where It Can Work

To be fair, blown-in fiberglass does just fine in dry, ventilated spaces—think attics with plenty of airflow and no risk of leaks. But in moisture-prone areas, like basements, crawl spaces, or rim joists? It’s not the material you want in your corner.

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Spray Foam Insulation: Pros and Cons for Moisture

Now let’s talk spray foam—the tough, no-nonsense cousin of fiberglass. It expands to seal every crack, crevice, and air leak. And when it comes to moisture? Especially closed-cell spray foam? It’s in a different league.

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Closed-Cell = Moisture Barrier

Closed-cell spray foam is dense and rigid—and doesn’t absorb water. It acts as its own vapor barrier, meaning it prevents moisture from getting in at all.

That means:

• No soaking, sagging, or slumping
• No mold growing behind the walls
• No hidden condensation issues
• Bonus: it adds structural strength

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It’s the go-to choice for wet basements, crawl spaces, rim joists, or any area where moisture is a concern. It’s also ideal for Connecticut’s humid summers and snowy winters.

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What About Open-Cell?

Open-cell spray foam is cheaper and more flexible, but it’s not water-resistant. It can absorb moisture, and it won’t block vapor movement the way closed-cell does. Not a great fit for moisture-prone areas.

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Does Spray Foam Prevent Condensation?

Yes—closed-cell spray foam can actually help prevent condensation by sealing air leaks and eliminating the cold surfaces where water vapor would otherwise collect.

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Head-to-Head Comparison: Fiberglass vs Spray Foam

Here’s how these two stack up side by side:

Bottom line: fiberglass can work if you control the moisture. But spray foam controls it for you.

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Choosing the Right Insulation for Moisture-Prone Areas

So how do you actually choose the right insulation? Here’s how we do it in the field:

1. Where’s it going?

• Dry attic? Fiberglass may work just fine.
• Basement, crawl space, or anywhere with moisture risk? Spray foam wins.

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2. What’s the climate?

Connecticut throws us heat, humidity, snow, and wind. That means your insulation needs to block moisture and air leaks year-round.

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3. What’s the structure like?

Older homes with uneven framing? Weird little rim joists? Spray foam seals tight, even in tough spots where fiberglass fails.

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4. What’s your budget—and your risk tolerance?

Fiberglass costs less up front but may need replacing if it gets wet. Spray foam costs more but lasts decades and protects from the start.

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Common FAQ's About Fiberglass, Spray Foam and Moisture

Can I mix blown-in fiberglass and spray foam in different areas of my home?

Yes, you can mix blown-in fiberglass and spray foam in different areas of your home. Spray foam works best in damp or draft-prone spaces like rim joists and crawl spaces, while blown-in fiberglass is ideal for open, dry attics. Using both balances performance, air sealing, and cost efficiency.

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Will moisture-resistant insulation help with musty smells in my basement?

Yes, moisture-resistant insulation helps reduce musty basement smells by blocking damp air and preventing condensation. Closed-cell spray foam seals rim joists and walls, keeping moisture out. When combined with air sealing and ventilation, it stops mold and mildew that cause odors and creates a drier, fresher space.

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How can I tell if my current insulation has moisture damage?

Check for moisture damage in insulation by smelling for musty odors and looking for sagging, clumped, discolored, or moldy material. In fiberglass, moisture causes settling or compression. Rising energy bills or drafts can also signal trouble. Professionals use thermal cameras or moisture meters to confirm hidden damage.

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Do I need a vapor barrier if I use spray foam?

You need a vapor barrier only if you're using open-cell spray foam. Closed-cell spray foam acts as its own vapor barrier due to its density and moisture resistance. Open-cell spray foam allows vapor through, so a separate vapor barrier is often required—especially in basements and crawl spaces in Connecticut.

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Is moisture-resistant insulation worth the higher cost?

Moisture-resistant insulation is worth the higher cost in damp areas. Closed-cell spray foam offers insulation, air sealing, and vapor protection in one, preventing mold, rot, and future repairs. Though more expensive upfront, it delivers long-term savings, better energy efficiency, and improved indoor air quality—making it a smart investment in moisture-prone zones.

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Final Verdict: Which Insulation Handles Moisture Better?

If moisture’s your concern—and let’s face it, it should be—closed-cell spray foam is your best bet. It blocks water, seals air, adds structure, and keeps you comfortable no matter what’s happening outside.

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Blown-in fiberglass has its place, but only in dry, predictable environments. In damp or risky areas, it just doesn’t cut it.

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Still not sure? Most insulation problems we see come from good intentions—but the wrong material in the wrong place. That’s why it pays to get it right the first time.

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👉 Need help figuring out the right insulation for your home? We’ve been insulating Connecticut homes since 1977, and we know what holds up to the elements—and what doesn’t. Let’s talk.

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Let’s get one thing out of the way: insulation isn’t sexy. But you know what is? Lower energy bills, a more comfortable home, and not hearing your HVAC wheeze like it’s running a marathon.

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If your attic is under-insulated—or insulated with the wrong stuff—you’re basically paying to heat the outdoors. And in Connecticut, where the seasons come in hot and cold (literally), that’s a losing game.

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So which attic insulation type actually delivers when it comes to energy efficiency? Let’s break it down.

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What Makes Insulation “Energy Efficient,” Anyway?

Let’s get one thing straight: energy-efficient insulation isn’t just about stuffing something fluffy in your attic and hoping for the best. It’s about controlling how heat moves through your home—and more importantly, how to stop it from escaping like a dog that figured out the screen door.

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The first thing folks bring up is R-value. That’s the measurement of how well a material resists heat flow. Higher R-value = better insulation performance. But here’s the kicker: R-value alone doesn’t tell the full story.

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Imagine wearing a thick winter coat full of holes. That’s high R-value with bad air sealing. Doesn’t matter how “warm” the material is if drafts are whistling right through it. That’s why air sealing is the unsung hero of insulation. A well-sealed attic paired with the right material will keep your home warmer in winter, cooler in summer, and your HVAC system from running a marathon every day.

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Another piece people overlook? Moisture control. Insulation that gets damp (looking at you, open fiberglass batts in a leaky attic) won’t perform well for long. And in a Connecticut climate, where humidity swings like a mood on Monday morning, that stuff matters.

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So when we talk about energy-efficient insulation, we’re looking for:

• High R-value (per inch, especially in tight attic spaces)
• Strong air sealing (no sneaky drafts)
• Moisture resistance (so performance stays strong over time)

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In short, the best insulation for energy efficiency does more than sit there. It seals, insulates, and holds up to weather, time, and the messiness of real life.

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Comparing the Main Types of Attic Insulation

Alright, now that we know what actually makes insulation energy efficient, let’s talk about your options. Not all insulation is created equal—and each type brings something different to the table. Some are air-sealing ninjas. Others are more like paper towels: cheap, common, and not great under pressure.

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Here’s the plain-English breakdown.

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Spray Foam Insulation (Open-Cell & Closed-Cell)

The Cadillac of attic insulation. Spray foam is high-performance and high-budget—and for good reason.

• Closed-cell spray foam has the highest R-value per inch (around R-6 to R-7), acts as an air and vapor barrier, and basically hardens into a weatherproof seal. It’s ideal for tight, irregular spaces or when you need max performance in minimal depth.
• Open-cell spray foam is softer, cheaper, and still seals air leaks—but it absorbs moisture like a sponge, so we don’t recommend it below-grade or in humid Connecticut attics.

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Best for: Energy efficiency, homes with weird attic geometry, or when air sealing is non-negotiable
Downside: Expensive, and it’s not a DIY weekend warrior kind of job

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Blown-In Cellulose Insulation

The workhorse. Cellulose is recycled newspaper treated with borates (which handle mold, fire, and pests like a bouncer at the door). It’s dense, it fills every nook, and it’s one of our go-to choices in Connecticut homes.

• R-value sits around R-3.5 to R-4 per inch
• Blown in over attic floors or dense-packed into rafter bays, it settles in tight and stops air movement better than fiberglass
• It’s also eco-friendly and cost-effective—without being flimsy

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Best for: Retrofitting older homes, topping off existing insulation, and environmentally conscious upgrades
Downside: Needs proper air sealing underneath to shine. Can settle slightly over time if not dense-packed

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Fiberglass Batt Insulation

The old standby. You’ve seen fiberglass: pink or yellow rolls shoved between attic joists. It’s cheap and easy to install, which is why it’s everywhere—but that doesn’t mean it’s the most efficient.

• R-value ranges from R-2.9 to R-3.8 per inch
• Doesn’t seal air gaps at all—so unless it’s paired with perfect air sealing, heat escapes right around it
• Works better in open spaces with standard joist spacing and minimal obstacles

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Best for: New builds on a budget, wide-open attic spaces
Downside: Gaps, drafts, and poor performance in real-world conditions if not installed carefully

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Each of these materials has its place. But if you're chasing real energy efficiency in your attic—especially in the unpredictable climate we get here in Connecticut—you want to pick the one that does more than just check the R-value box. You want something that actually seals, resists moisture, and lasts.

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Energy Efficiency Comparison Table: The Good, The Better, and The Drafty

Now that we’ve walked through the big three insulation types, let’s put them head-to-head in a no-fluff comparison. Because at the end of the day, you’re probably asking: “Which one gives me the most bang for my buck?”

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Mike’s Take:

• Want top-tier efficiency with the budget to match? Closed-cell spray foam is hard to beat. It insulates and air seals in one shot.
• Want real performance without breaking the bank? Dense-packed cellulose gives great results—especially when paired with proper air sealing.
• Looking at batts or open-cell foam in a Connecticut attic? You might save upfront, but you’ll likely pay it back (and then some) on your energy bills.

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Bottom line: The best attic insulation for energy efficiency isn’t just about R-value—it’s about how well it works in real homes, through real winters, with real utility bills on the line.

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What’s the Best Attic Insulation for Connecticut Homes?

Let’s narrow it down. Because while charts and specs are nice, you’re not insulating a lab—you’re insulating a house in Connecticut, where winter winds can rattle your windows and summer humidity turns your attic into a sauna.

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For Older Connecticut Homes

Most of the houses we work on—especially along the shoreline—are 50+ years old, drafty as a barn, and built long before energy efficiency was a thing. If that sounds like your place, blown-in cellulose is usually the sweet spot.

• It settles into every nook and cranny in your attic floor
• It plays well with uneven framing and weird attic shapes
• When dense-packed, it seals up air leaks surprisingly well—especially when combined with attic air sealing and baffles

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It’s also green, affordable, and it won’t attract pests or mold if installed correctly. We've installed it in homes from Branford to Old Saybrook, and it’s made a night-and-day difference.

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For Homes with Moisture Concerns or Complex Rooflines

If your attic looks more like a jungle gym of trusses or you’ve had issues with condensation, damp rafters, or ice dams, closed-cell spray foam is the better long-term play.

• It offers both insulation and a vapor barrier
• It locks in heat and blocks moisture from the roof deck down
• It’s pricier, but in the right situation, it can save you thousands in energy loss and roof repairs

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Perfect for homes where you're insulating under the roof deck (cathedral ceilings, conditioned attics, etc.) or when you want your attic space within the thermal envelope.

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What We Don’t Recommend

• Open-cell spray foam? Skip it in unvented attics here—it absorbs moisture like a sponge and can lead to rot.
• Fiberglass batts? They’re fine in new builds but don’t hold up well in real-world conditions. Gaps, compression, and air leakage are all too common.

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So What’s “Best”?

If we’re talking about the best attic insulation for energy efficiency in Connecticut, the real answer is: it depends on your house. But most of the time, it comes down to dense-packed cellulose for cost-effective upgrades, or closed-cell spray foam for max performance in moisture-prone or complex spaces.

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Final Verdict: What’s the Most Energy-Efficient Attic Insulation?

If you’ve stuck with me this far, you now know more about attic insulation than most contractors on Facebook Marketplace. So let’s cut to it:

• Want top-tier efficiency with the budget to match? Go with closed-cell spray foam. It insulates, seals, and shrugs off moisture like a champ.
• Want serious performance without torching your wallet? Dense-packed cellulose is the MVP—especially in older, drafty New England homes.
• Looking at fiberglass batts or open-cell foam for your attic? Be cautious. They have their place, but that place isn’t usually in a Connecticut attic.

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Remember, the “best” insulation isn’t just about R-value—it’s about how it performs in your home, with your roof, and your climate. That’s why we don’t do cookie-cutter solutions. We do what works.

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And what works? Quality materials, smart air sealing, and an installer who knows the difference between cutting corners and doing it right.

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👉 Want us to take a look at your attic and lay out the smartest path forward? Contact Nealon Insulation and let’s make your home more efficient, comfortable, and quiet—without the guesswork.

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Common Attic Insulation FAQ's

How do I know if my attic is under-insulated?

You can tell your attic is under-insulated if rooms are hard to heat or cool, ice dams form in winter, or the insulation looks thin, patchy, or dusty. Seeing exposed joists is another red flag. In Connecticut, attics should meet R-49 to R-60. A professional audit confirms insulation levels.

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Can I mix different types of attic insulation?

You can mix attic insulation types, like adding cellulose over fiberglass, if the existing material is dry, stable, and air sealing is completed first. Mixing requires care—done improperly, it can trap moisture or reduce performance. Consult a pro to ensure compatibility and code compliance.

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Does adding attic insulation qualify for any rebates or tax credits?

Yes, adding attic insulation may qualify for rebates or tax credits. In 2025, the federal Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit offers up to 30% back (up to $1,200) for qualifying upgrades. Connecticut homeowners may also receive additional rebates through Energize CT based on utility provider and income.

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How long does attic insulation typically last?

Attic insulation typically lasts 20–30 years if installed properly and kept dry. Cellulose maintains performance well over time, while fiberglass may settle or degrade. Spray foam can last the lifetime of the home if protected from UV exposure and moisture. Longevity depends on material type and environmental conditions.

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Will insulating my attic reduce noise too?

Yes, insulating your attic can reduce noise. Dense materials like cellulose and spray foam absorb sound, helping to block outside noise such as rain or reduce indoor noise like HVAC equipment. While thermal performance is the main benefit, attic insulation also improves home acoustics and quietness.

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If your floors feel cold in winter or your home smells a little... earthy after a rainstorm, your crawl space might be the reason. Most folks never give it a second thought—until they’re dealing with mold, drafts, or energy bills that look like a second mortgage. That’s the thing about crawl spaces: they’re out of sight, but not out of mind when it comes to how your home performs.

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In Connecticut, where weather swings from humid summers to icy Nor’easters, insulating your crawl space isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s essential. Done right, it keeps moisture out, warm air in, and critters where they belong (anywhere but under your house). Done wrong—or not at all—and you’re inviting mold, rot, and sky-high heating costs.

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So what’s the best crawl space insulation? Spray foam? Fiberglass? Foam board? We’ve tested them all. This guide breaks it down in plain English—no sales fluff, just real-world pros and cons—so you can make the right call for your home and your wallet.

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The Real Question: What Makes an Insulation Type “Best”?

Let’s clear something up: there’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to the best crawl space insulation. Anyone who tells you otherwise probably sells one product and calls it a day.

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Here’s the truth—what works best depends on what you’re working with. Got a vented crawl space with good airflow? That’s a different playbook than a damp, musty crawl with a dirt floor. Planning to fully encapsulate with a vapor barrier and seal it tight? Now we’re talking a whole different set of rules.

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To figure out the right material, we look at six things:

1. Moisture resistance – Can it handle humidity without growing a mold farm?
2. Air sealing – Does it block drafts and keep outdoor air from creeping in?
3. R-value – How well does it slow down heat loss?
4. Durability – Will it stay put, or fall to the floor in five years?
5. Install method – Are we insulating the subfloor, the walls, or the whole crawl?
6. Cost vs. performance – What gets you the most bang for your buck?

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If your crawl space is damp or flood-prone, for example, you need something that won’t absorb water or fall apart—spoiler alert: fiberglass doesn’t make the cut. That’s where options like closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam board shine, especially when paired with proper crawl space encapsulation insulation.

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Bottom line: The best insulation does more than just pass code—it solves your specific problem. That’s what we aim for every time.

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Option 1: Closed-Cell Spray Foam (The Gold Standard for Encapsulation)

If you’re serious about sealing your crawl space tight—like “forget-it’s-even-there” tight—closed-cell spray foam is the heavyweight champ. It’s what we reach for when a homeowner wants long-term performance, moisture control, and insulation all in one shot.

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Why? Because this stuff doesn’t just insulate—it air seals and acts as a vapor barrier, too. Spray it on the crawl space walls and rim joists, and you’ve created a shell that blocks moisture, drafts, and even pests.

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What makes it great:

• High R-value per inch
• Water resistant
• Air sealing power
• Adds structural strength

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Now, is it the cheapest option? Not by a long shot. But if you're after a one-and-done solution that performs year-round and pays you back on your energy bills, this is the one to beat.

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Option 2: Rigid Foam Board (Budget-Friendly for Encapsulation)

If spray foam is the Cadillac, rigid foam board is the dependable pickup. It gets the job done without draining your wallet.

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These boards (typically polyiso or XPS) are installed on crawl space walls and sealed at the seams. When combined with a floor vapor barrier, they create a solid moisture and thermal barrier.

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Why we use it:

• Good R-value
• Moisture resistant
• Long-lasting and clean
• More affordable than spray foam

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This setup works great in encapsulated crawl spaces where you want durability and performance—without breaking the bank. Just make sure the seams are sealed, or pair it with some spray foam for a tighter air seal.

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Option 3: Fiberglass (What Not to Use in a Damp Crawl Space)

Let’s just say it: fiberglass insulation and crawl spaces don’t get along. We find it all the time—soaked, sagging, and moldy. It may be cheap up front, but it often turns into a money pit down the line.

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Why it fails in most crawl spaces:

• Absorbs moisture
• Supports mold
• Falls down over time
• Rodents love it

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Unless you’ve got a bone-dry, well-vented crawl space (rare around here), skip it. And if you’ve got old fiberglass under there now? Check out our insulation removal service—we’ll get rid of it and set you up with something that works.

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Option 4: Blown-In Cellulose (Only in Certain Crawl Space Setups)

We love blown-in cellulose for attics and walls—but it has a very specific use case in crawl spaces.

If you’ve got a dry, vented crawl space and want to insulate the floor joists from below, cellulose can be a smart move. It air-seals better than fiberglass and resists pests and mold (thanks to its borate treatment).

But if there’s any chance of moisture, it’s a no-go. Cellulose absorbs water and will settle or rot over time. Use it only in the right conditions, and you’ll be happy. Use it in a damp crawl, and you’re back to square one in a few years.

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Bonus Consideration: Vapor Barrier vs. Insulation – What’s the Difference?

A vapor barrier is not insulation, and insulation is not a vapor barrier.

• Vapor barrier: a plastic sheet laid across the crawl floor to stop ground moisture.
• Insulation: blocks heat transfer—either along the floor or the crawl space walls.

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If you want your crawl space to stay dry and efficient, you need both. A vapor barrier keeps moisture out. Insulation keeps heat in. Skipping either one usually leads to problems—either comfort issues or moldy headaches.

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When in doubt, ask us to take a look. We’ll tell you what you need—and what you don’t.

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Real Talk: Is Crawl Space Insulation Worth It in Connecticut?

Here’s the bottom line: insulating your crawl space is absolutely worth it—especially here in Connecticut, where the weather throws everything at your home in a single year.

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What you gain:

• Warm floors in winter
• Lower energy bills
• No more musty smells
• Less mold and rot
• Better home value

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We’ve been fixing crawl spaces since 1977. When it’s done right, you only have to do it once.

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How Much Does Crawl Space Insulation Cost in Connecticut?

Here’s a rough idea of what homeowners around here are paying:

• Fiberglass (floor only): $1.50–$2.50/sq ft
• Blown-in cellulose: $2.00–$3.50/sq ft
• Rigid foam board: $3.50–$5.50/sq ft
• Spray foam (full encapsulation): $5.00–$8.00+/sq ft

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Your price depends on crawl size, access, current condition, and whether you’re adding a vapor barrier or drainage. We’ll give you a clear, honest quote before we touch a thing.

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Common Crawl Space FAQ's

How do I know if my crawl space needs new insulation?

You’ll know your crawl space needs new insulation if you notice cold floors, musty odors, rising energy bills, or visible issues like sagging insulation, mold, or rodent activity. Moisture on the vapor barrier is another red flag. These signs often mean your crawl space insulation is failing or missing entirely.

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Should I insulate the crawl space walls or the subfloor?

Insulate crawl space walls if the space is encapsulated, as this keeps it within your home’s thermal envelope. For vented crawl spaces, insulate the subfloor between joists. Using the wrong method can lead to cold floors or moisture problems, so the choice depends on whether the crawl space is sealed or ventilated.

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Can I insulate my crawl space myself?

You can insulate your crawl space yourself, but it’s risky unless the space is dry, accessible, and you understand proper materials and methods. DIY attempts often skip critical steps like air sealing or moisture control, which can lead to mold, rot, or insulation failure—resulting in costly redos.

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What’s the difference between open-cell and closed-cell spray foam in a crawl space?

The main difference between open-cell and closed-cell spray foam in a crawl space is moisture resistance. Closed-cell foam is dense, water-resistant, and doubles as an air and vapor barrier—ideal for Connecticut’s damp conditions. Open-cell is cheaper but absorbs moisture, making it unsuitable for below-grade use.

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Will insulating my crawl space help with humidity in the rest of the house?

Absolutely. A poorly sealed crawl space acts like a moisture engine, pumping damp air into your home’s living areas—especially if you’ve got hardwood floors or HVAC ducts running overhead. A properly insulated and sealed crawl helps control indoor humidity, improves air quality, and even protects your flooring from warping or cupping.

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Conclusion: Choosing the Right Insulation for Your Crawl Space

So, what’s the best crawl space insulation?

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That depends on your setup. But the right choice will block moisture, seal air leaks, and actually last.
We’ll help you choose the right material for your home—not just the most expensive one.

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At Nealon Insulation, we’ve been doing this since 1977. Crawl spaces, attics, walls—you name it. We don’t do shortcuts, and we don’t push products you don’t need. Just smart solutions that make your home feel better and cost less to run.

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👉 Ready to fix your crawl space for good? Schedule your free inspection here. We’ll crawl it, quote it, and fix it like it’s our own.

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