What are the Different Types of Blown-In Insulation? A Guide to Blown-In Insulation
Let’s cut through the fluff—literally. When it comes to blown-in insulation, you’ve got three main players: cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral wool. They all technically “do the job,” but one of them does it better, cleaner, and smarter—especially if you care about your energy bill, the environment, and keeping your house comfortable year-round.
Here’s the breakdown, straight up.
1. Cellulose Insulation – The Heavyweight Champ 🥇
Made from shredded-up recycled newspaper and treated with borates (a natural fire retardant), cellulose insulation doesn’t just look like it means business—it actually does.
Why we swear by it:
- Higher R-Value – It keeps heat where it belongs: in during winter, out during summer. More bang for your buck.
- Air Sealing Like a Boss – It fills every little nook, crack, and air gap—no drafts sneaking through.
- Green as it Gets – Up to 85% recycled content, which means less trash in landfills.
- Mold & Pest Resistance – Borates handle mold, mice, and bugs like a bouncer at the door.
- Fire Resistance – Treated to slow down flames if disaster ever strikes.
Bottom line? This stuff works hard—and it works smart.
2. Fiberglass Insulation – The Lightweight Contender
Ah yes, the insulation most people recognize. Those little pink tufts or white fluffy clouds? That’s fiberglass insulation—made of spun glass fibers.
Pros:
- Cheap and easy to find.
- Decent thermal performance when installed perfectly.
Cons:
- Lower R-value than cellulose—so you’re losing heat and cash.
- Doesn’t seal air gaps well—hello drafts.
- Itches like crazy, and you don’t want it floating around your lungs.
You can do better. Trust me.
3. Mineral Wool (a.k.a. Rock Wool) – The Tough Guy
This one’s made from actual rock that’s been melted and spun into fibers. Sounds metal. Literally.
Pros:
- Naturally fire-resistant—no extra chemicals needed.
- Great at blocking sound. (Bonus if you’ve got noisy neighbors.)
Cons:
- Expensive.
- Harder to find.
- Heavy as hell—can even require beefing up your framing.
It’s solid—but overkill for most residential jobs. Unless you’re building a recording studio or a medieval castle, you probably don’t need this.
So… Why Cellulose?
Glad you asked. If you want:
✅ More energy savings
✅ Better indoor comfort
✅ Fewer drafts and moisture headaches
✅ Less environmental guilt
✅ No fiberglass rash or airborne irritants
…then cellulose is your clear winner. Especially here in Connecticut, where we get the full buffet of weather: humid summers, icy winters, and everything in between.
Common Blown-In Insulation FAQ's
Will cellulose insulation settle over time?
Yes, cellulose insulation can settle over time, but proper dense-pack installation limits this effect. When installed correctly, settling is minimal and factored into the initial application to maintain the target R-value. Poorly installed cellulose loses performance, but professional methods preserve long-term effectiveness.
Can blown-in cellulose be added over existing insulation?
Yes, blown-in cellulose can be added over existing insulation if the current material is dry, clean, and free of pests. This method is commonly used in Connecticut to improve energy efficiency by topping off old fiberglass with dense-pack cellulose. A professional inspection ensures proper conditions before installation.
Is cellulose safe to use around electrical wiring and fixtures?
Yes, cellulose insulation is safe to use around electrical wiring and fixtures when installed correctly. It is treated with fire retardants and meets residential safety standards. Installers must follow code requirements, especially near recessed lighting, using IC-rated fixtures or protective baffles where needed.
How long does blown-in insulation last?
Blown-in cellulose insulation typically lasts 20 to 30 years or more when properly installed and kept dry. It resists mold, pests, and settling thanks to borate treatment and dense packing. Unlike batt insulation, it retains performance over decades, making it a long-lasting solution for energy efficiency and comfort.
Will blown-in insulation make my home quieter?
Blown-in insulation, especially cellulose, can make your home noticeably quieter by dampening outside noise like traffic, rain, and neighbors. While not designed as soundproofing, its dense composition acts as an effective acoustic barrier, reducing sound transmission through walls, ceilings, and attic spaces.
The Bottom Line
If you’re still on the fence, let me make it simple: blown-in cellulose hits the sweet spot. It’s tougher than fiberglass, greener than mineral wool, and built to handle everything a Connecticut season throws at your home. You get higher R-values, better air sealing, fewer drafts, and insulation that doesn’t come with a side of lung irritation.
At Nealon Insulation, we’ve been dense-packing walls and attics since before most folks had cell phones. We’ve seen the gimmicks, and we’ve seen what works—and cellulose keeps delivering.
👉 Ready to upgrade your insulation? Contact Nealon Insulation and let’s make your home tighter, quieter, and way more efficient. No fluff. Just real results.
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What Is the Best Insulation for Walls?
Your walls are doing more than just holding up your roof. They’re the front line in your battle for comfort, efficiency, and quiet. So let’s make sure they’re pulling their weight.
Your walls are doing more than just holding up your roof. They’re the front line in your battle for comfort, efficiency, and quiet. So let’s make sure they’re pulling their weight.
If your home’s walls are hollow, poorly insulated, or stuffed with 1970s-era fiberglass, it’s time for an upgrade. But with all the choices—spray foam, fiberglass, cellulose, mineral wool—how do you know which one actually works best?
Short answer: it depends on your home, your goals, and your budget. Long answer? You’re about to find out.
Welcome to your guide to the best insulation for walls, brought to you by a team that’s been insulating homes across Connecticut since bell bottoms were cool the first time.
Why Wall Insulation Matters More Than You Think
Most people don’t think about the insulation behind their walls—until they feel a draft, get slapped with a sky-high energy bill, or hear every step their kids take in the next room.
Wall insulation plays a critical role in:
- Regulating temperature between rooms and across floors
- Lowering heating and cooling bills
- Reducing noise from outside or within the house
- Blocking moisture and air leaks that lead to mold and rot
In older Connecticut homes especially, exterior walls are often under-insulated—or not insulated at all. That means you're paying to heat or cool the outdoors, and probably not enjoying the comfort you should indoors.
Know Your Options: Common Types of Wall Insulation
Let’s break down the top players when it comes to wall insulation. Each one has its pros and cons—and the right one depends on your goals.
1. Fiberglass Batts (The Budget Classic)
Cheap, fast, and available at every big box store. Fiberglass batts are great for open wall cavities and new construction, but they can leave gaps and don't stop air movement well.
Good for: Budget jobs, open framing, simple installs
Not ideal for: Air sealing or older homes with weird wall layouts
🔗 Discover more about fiberglass insulation
2. Dense-Packed Cellulose (The Retrofit Hero)
Cellulose is made from recycled paper, but don’t let that fool you—it’s a beast at filling wall cavities, sealing air leaks, and dampening sound. We often use it to insulate existing walls without tearing them open.
Good for: Older Connecticut homes, energy upgrades, air sealing
Not ideal for: Places with high moisture exposure unless paired with proper vapor barriers
🔗 Learn more about cellulose insulation
Here's How the Dense Pack Cellulose Works
3. Spray Foam (The Premium Performer)
Closed-cell spray foam gives you high R-value, strong air sealing, and moisture resistance—all in one shot. It’s more expensive, but it performs like a champ and adds structural strength.
Good for: Cold climates, tight spaces, moisture-prone areas
Not ideal for: Tight budgets or retrofits in finished walls
🔗 Explore spray foam insulation
How to Choose the Best Insulation for Your Walls
Here’s what really matters when deciding:
- Age of your home: Old homes? Cellulose is often the MVP.
- Wall access: Open walls = more options. Closed walls = think dense-pack.
- Moisture risk: Go with closed-cell spray foam or mineral wool in damp spots.
- Noise issues: Use mineral wool for quiet, or cellulose for a solid balance.
- Budget: Fiberglass wins on price, spray foam wins on performance.
When Should You Insulate or Re-Insulate Your Walls?
There’s no universal timer, but here are 5 moments when wall insulation becomes a smart move:
- Your walls feel cold in winter or hot in summer
- You’re renovating, replacing siding, or opening up walls
- Your energy bills have climbed for no obvious reason
- You hear outside noise clearly from inside
- Your home was built before the 1980s (when insulation wasn’t required)
🔗 See more wall insulation services for Connecticut homeowners
7 Big Benefits of Proper Wall Insulation
- Lower Energy Bills: Cut heating and cooling costs by 15–25%.
- More Consistent Temps: No more hot rooms upstairs or freezing spots in the corner.
- Noise Reduction: Stop hearing your neighbors—or your teenager’s stereo.
- Improved Air Quality: Proper insulation helps block dust, allergens, and outdoor pollutants.
- Moisture Control: Avoid condensation, mold, and wood rot.
- Increased Comfort: A well-insulated home simply feels better.
- Higher Resale Value: Buyers love efficient, well-sealed homes.
FAQs: Wall Insulation in Connecticut
Can you insulate existing exterior walls without removing drywall?
Yes, you can insulate your walls without removing drywall. Nealon Insulation installs dense-packed cellulose or injection foam through small exterior holes, which are patched after. This method upgrades comfort and efficiency without damaging your home’s interior.
What’s the recommended R-value for walls in Connecticut?
The recommended R-value for walls in Connecticut is R-13 to R-21. Older homes with 2x4 walls typically reach R-13 to R-15, while newer homes with 2x6 framing can achieve R-21. Dense-packed cellulose can help improve performance by sealing air gaps, especially in drafty or under-insulated walls.
Does insulating my walls add resale value to my home?
Yes, insulating your walls can increase resale value by boosting energy efficiency and comfort. Buyers appreciate lower utility bills and consistent room temperatures. In older Connecticut homes, upgraded insulation with documented R-values or savings can be a strong selling point.
How do I know what’s currently inside my walls?
To know what’s inside your walls, professionals inspect behind outlet covers or drill small test holes to view or sample insulation. Tools like borescopes or core samplers reveal whether insulation exists and what type it is. This quick, non-invasive check helps determine if upgrades are needed without damaging your walls.
Final Take: Wall Insulation That Works As Hard As You Do
Your walls can be a money pit or a comfort fortress—it depends on what’s inside them. If your energy bills are climbing, rooms feel drafty, or your home’s just not holding temperature, wall insulation might be the missing piece.
And don’t worry—you don’t need to have it all figured out. That’s our job.
At Nealon Insulation, we’ve been helping homeowners across Connecticut insulate smarter for nearly 50 years. From dense-packed cellulose in old beach homes to spray foam in new builds, we know how to match the right solution to your space, your needs, and your budget.
👉 Get your free wall insulation assessment today and let’s make those walls work for you.
How to Vac Out an Attic Full of Insulation
Ever wonder what's lurking above your ceiling? If your attic's packed with old, dusty insulation, you’re not alone—and clearing it out might be one of the best upgrades you can make for your home.
Ever wonder what's lurking above your ceiling? If your attic's packed with old, dusty insulation, you’re not alone—and clearing it out might be one of the best upgrades you can make for your home.
Whether you’re dealing with water damage, pest mess, or just outdated materials, vacuuming out attic insulation is a smart first step toward better energy efficiency and cleaner air. But it’s not as simple as dragging out a shop vac and diving in. This guide breaks it down the Nealon way—clear, safe, and practical for Connecticut homeowners.
Let’s walk through what it takes to do the job right—and when it’s time to call in a pro.
Full write up below the video.
Why Homeowners in CT Remove Attic Insulation
Attic insulation doesn’t last forever—and in Connecticut, our cold winters and humid summers don’t help. Over time, insulation can break down, get damp, or even turn into a home for pests. If you've noticed rising energy bills or musty odors, your attic might be the culprit.
Here are a few common reasons homeowners in CT decide to remove their attic insulation:
- Moisture damage: Leaky roofs or high humidity can soak insulation, making it useless.
- Rodents or pests: Mice, squirrels, and even bats can nest in insulation, leaving behind droppings and odor.
- Mold and mildew: Once mold gets into insulation, it spreads fast and needs to go.
- Upgrading efficiency: Older homes often have outdated insulation that doesn’t meet modern energy codes.
Understanding the Attic Insulation Removal Process
Removing insulation might sound simple, but there’s a right way to do it—especially if you want to avoid making a mess or breathing in harmful particles.
The process starts with an inspection to figure out what type of insulation you’re dealing with. In many CT homes, you'll find either blown-in cellulose, fiberglass batts, or older vermiculite (which can contain asbestos and needs special handling).
There are two main ways to remove insulation:
- Manual removal: This involves physically pulling out batts or scooping up loose fill.
- Vacuum removal: A powerful vacuum system sucks the insulation into large bags. It’s cleaner and faster—especially for blown-in types.
Tools and Equipment Needed for Vacuum Removal of Insulation
Vacuuming out attic insulation requires more than your average shop vac. Here’s what the pros use—and what you’ll need if you’re thinking of doing it yourself.
Equipment Checklist:
- High-powered insulation vacuum (HEPA-rated)
- Flexible vacuum hoses
- Insulation collection bags
- Respirator mask, goggles, gloves, and disposable suit
- Duct tape and plastic sheeting
Having the right gear keeps your home clean and your lungs safe.
Step-by-Step Guide to Vacuuming Out Attic Insulation
1. Prep the Area
Seal off access points, lay down plastic sheeting, and ensure good lighting.
2. Gear Up
Suit up in safety gear and double-check all vacuum components.
3. Start the Vacuum
Work from the back of the attic toward the access point in overlapping passes.
4. Final Cleanup
Vacuum or sweep remaining debris. Bag it all up and dispose of it safely.
When to Call a Pro Instead
Vacuuming insulation sounds easy—until you're halfway through with a clog in your hose and a dust cloud in your house. Consider calling a pro if:
- The attic has rodent or mold contamination
- Insulation may contain asbestos
- The space is tight or steep
- You lack the proper equipment
Professionals make the process faster, safer, and often more cost-effective. Check out our attic insulation services to see what we can do for your space.
FAQs: Vacuuming Out Attic Insulation
Is it safe to vacuum out attic insulation myself?
Yes, it's safe to vacuum out attic insulation yourself if you use proper protection—respirator, goggles, gloves, and disposable coveralls. Seal off the house, ventilate the area, and work slowly. For vermiculite or contaminated insulation, hire a professional.
What type of vacuum do I need to remove attic insulation?
You need a commercial-grade HEPA vacuum to remove attic insulation. Standard shop vacs can’t handle the fine dust—especially from cellulose—and will clog quickly. A HEPA vacuum ensures proper filtration and safe cleanup.
How long does it take?
Removing attic insulation takes 6–15 hours for a DIY job and 4–6 hours for professionals on a typical 1,500 sq ft attic. Pros work faster using commercial equipment and efficient cleanup methods.
Any DIY tips from homeowners?
Yes—DIY insulation removal goes smoother with two people. Bags fill quickly, so have extras ready. Use duct tape to secure hose connections and patch tears. Stay organized and take safety precautions throughout the job.
What mistakes should I avoid?
Avoid common insulation removal mistakes: don’t skip safety gear, never step between joists, and plan for proper disposal. These errors can lead to injury, home damage, or hazardous exposure. Preparation and caution are key.
Conclusion
Tackling attic insulation removal on your own can save money, but it’s no small job. Between the dust, the equipment, and the tight spaces, it pays to know what you're getting into. And if there’s any sign of damage, pests, or questionable materials, don’t take chances—get a pro.
At Nealon Insulation, we handle every step from removal to replacement using high-efficiency materials that keep your home warmer in winter and cooler in summer. If your attic’s ready for a fresh start, check out our attic insulation services to see how we can help.
👉 Ready to line up insulation that actually performs? Contact Nealon Insulation for a walkthrough or quote.
Sprint. Rest. Repeat. The Natural Rhythm of a Great Insulation Crew
Why insulators are more lion than cow — and why that’s exactly what you want
Why insulators are more lion than cow — and why that’s exactly what you want
Not all trades are created equal — not in rhythm, not in pace, and definitely not in physical demand.
Some contracting work lends itself to a slow, steady approach. You’ve probably seen it: the plumber walking from the van to the sink, tools neatly rolled out, a cup of coffee still warm. Or the electrician running a wire with the steady focus and calm of a chess player. These are the “grazers” of the trades — they move methodically, conserving energy by keeping a constant pace. Like cows in a pasture, they get the job done, one chew at a time.
Insulators, on the other hand… they’re more like lions.
We work in sprints. Not because we’re undisciplined and lack attention — but because the environment demands it. You don’t hang out in an attic in August or a crawlspace in February for fun. You go in, focus intently, do the job, and get out. It’s tactical. It’s focused. And it’s fast.
That’s the rhythm of a good insulation crew:
Sprint. Rest. Repeat.
Why We Hunt, Not Graze
The environments we work in don’t allow for grazing. You're either sweating buckets in a scorching attic, dodging nails and roof spikes, or crawling through a damp, dark basement trying not to get fiberglass in your eyes. It’s intense, full-body work, and it doesn’t come with breaks built in.
So a good insulator learns to move like a lion, a hunter:
- Strategically plan the attack
- Move with clear intent and intensity
- Move in for the kill… (ok that’s a little intense). I mean mercilessly air seal and insulate every nook and cranny
- Withdraw and recover
- Then do it again
You’ll often see our guys hanging in the truck for ten or fifteen minutes after a push. Not because they’re lazy — but because they’ve just installed 800 square feet of dense-pack cellulose in 95° heat. That break isn't a sign of weakness. It’s how they stay sharp.
Nothing Against Grazers! Still Skilled, Just Different.
This isn’t to take anything away from plumbers, HVAC techs, electricians, or finish carpenters. They’re craftsmen. But the nature of their work is more controlled — temperature-controlled, tool-controlled, pace-controlled.
That’s valuable work. But it’s a different kind of energy system. A different muscle.
The Crew That Moves Like a Lion
When we look at how to train and schedule insulation crews, we don’t try to turn lions into cows. That’s a mistake a lot of production managers make — they try to force a grazing rhythm onto a job that requires sprints.
Instead, we give our crews the autonomy to operate the way high-output insulators naturally do:
- Tight windows of intense effort
- Flexible, earned rest
- Clear expectations and accountability
- And make sure to provide the tools and materials that can keep up with them
A good crew knows how to go from zero to sixty, then back to zero… then back to sixty (ok, you get the point). And the ones that figure that out tend to produce more square footage per day — with better quality.
So if you see a Nealon truck door open and a crew sitting back for a few minutes — respect the rhythm. They’ve earned it. And chances are, they’re about to go full-speed again… so look out.
Want us to take a look at your attic, basement, or walls? We’ll walk the job with you like grazers, then get it done like lions.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.