Home Comfort Insights from Connecticut's Insulation Experts

If you’ve ever gotten a quote for insulation work and thought, “Where is this number even coming from?” — you’re not alone.

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We get it. Home improvement pricing can feel like a black box. So let’s open it up. This post breaks down how insulation pricing works — at least for us at Nealon Insulation — so you can make better-informed decisions about your home.

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The Building Blocks of a Quote

Every insulation project has three core pricing components:

1. Materials
   
   
2. Labor
   
   
3. Margin (which covers overhead as well as a modest profit for us… we gotta eat too!)
   
   

Let’s break each one down.

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1. Materials: What You’re Putting in the Walls (or Attic or Basement)

First up: materials. This part’s pretty cut and dry.

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Based on the size of the space and the type of insulation you need — fiberglass batts, spray foam, cellulose, etc. — we estimate how much product is needed based on the square footage and necessary R-value which is essentially measured by thickness in inches.

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We know the cost per bag, batt, or board foot (square foot by inch) of material. Multiply that by the quantity needed, and you’ve got your material cost!

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Simple as that! It’s transparent and straightforward — no magic here…

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But next come’s the trickier part…

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2. Labor: Who’s Installing It, and How Long will It Take

This is where things start to vary a bit more.

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We do our best estimate how many total hours it will take to complete the job, from setup to cleanup. Then we multiply that by the average hourly labor cost across our crew. Our goal is to be as efficient as possible with this to ensure that you don’t get overcharged and everyone comes out a winner. 

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But it’s important to note labor isn’t just the physical act of installing insulation. It includes things like:

• Driving to your property
  
  
• Setting up tools and safety gear
  
  
• Protecting your home’s surfaces
  
  
• Cleaning up so you’re not left with a mess
  
  

If your home is older, has tight crawlspaces, requires extra prep, or needs just a little bit more concentration and caution then of course the labor hours go up.

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And on top of that in this line of work sometime’s we’re getting into spaces or walls where we don’t even know what we’re going to find until we’re in there so sometimes contingencies need to be built in. 

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3. Margin: Why the Final Price Isn’t Just Materials + Labor

Here’s the part most people don’t talk about — the markup… 

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After we calculate materials and labor, we add a target margin. This isn’t just profit for us. It also covers all the other costs of running a business:

• Insurance and licenses
  
  
• Vehicles and gas
  
  
• Payroll taxes
  
  
• Tools and equipment maintenance
  
  
• Office support
  
  
• Marketing and scheduling
  
  
• Training, safety, and more!
  
  

But I promise we’re not greedy! Our goal is for you, the customer, to get real value for the price. We don’t aim for crazy margins. We aim for healthy, sustainable ones — the kind that keep good, high quality people employed and happy to help you with your problems. 

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Why Some Quotes Are Lower (or Higher)

If you see a big discrepancy in pricing, it could be because:

• They’re cutting corners on material quality
  
  
• They’re underestimating labor time
  
  
• They’re not factoring in overhead (and may not be around next year)
  
  
• Or maybe they’re just a more efficienct company
  
  

If a quote is higher, it could be due to a company’s inefficiencies, higher overhead, maybe just plain greed… or maybe they’re higher quality and doing things the right way. 

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Everything’s relative here so it’s hard to know, just make sure you’re working with someone you can trust and know what you’re paying for.

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Final Thoughts

Insulation isn’t glamorous, but it’s one of the best investments you can make in your home’s energy efficiency, comfort, and long-term health.

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We believe in doing things right — pricing included. When you get a quote from us, it’s built through real time, effort, and deep thought to ensure we’re providing the highest quality work for the best value:
Materials + Labor + Margin = Total Price

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It’s not rocket science. It’s just good business.

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And when it’s done right, everybody wins.

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👉 Free consultation. No pressure. Just honest advice.

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Let’s be honest—insulation isn’t sexy. It’s not something you show off to your neighbors. It’s not your renovated Kitchen with marble finishing or a beautiful new stone deck with a built in grill and smoker. 

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No one’s coming over to crack open beers and admire the craftsmanship… “Wow, check out that R-49 blown cellulose! There’s no lumps or anything!” 

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But… if you own a home in Connecticut, insulation might be the most boring way to save yourself the most money. You won’t get oooh’s and aaah’s but you will get lower energy bills, a more comfortable home, and fewer fights over the thermostat.

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But I know what you’re now asking yourself… how much can I really save? How long does insulation take to pay for itself?

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🥁🥁🥁

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The Short Answer: 2 to 5 Years…

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The Even Shorter Answer: It depends! But it does works

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But definitely don’t take my word for it. What do I know, I’ve only been doing this for 40 years… And I’ve been told I’m biased or something… 

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Let’s see what the Research Says

According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and Energize CT, insulation and air sealing will shave 15–30% off your heating and cooling bills. In Connecticut, where winters are long and heating oil is basically liquid gold, that adds up!

• The average Connecticut household spends around $2,000 per year on heating and cooling combined (source: EIA.gov).
  
  
• So let’s do some quick math!
  
  • If you saved 20% on your heating and cooling bills that’s $400/year back in your pocket.
  • If your insulation project costs around ~$2,000 that’s about a 5 year payback 
  • If you save closer to 30%...that’s less than a three and a half year payback
  • After that it’s just continuous money in your pocket for the next 25-30 years until you need another upgrade

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But like I said before… it depends! 

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Not to brag or anything but we’ve upgraded homes in which the payback period was fewer than 2 years!

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Add in Connecticut’s Home Energy Solutions program, and it gets better. The program can often cover up to 75% of the cost through rebates and incentives.

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Facts, Myths, and We-Just-Don’t-Know 

There’s a lot of information floating around out there...let’s break it down. 

✅ Facts

• Insulation reduces energy bills. 
  • This is backed by the DOE, ENERGY STAR, and pretty much anyone who’s upgraded their insulation and compared their before and after their utility bill afterward.
    
    

• Air sealing matters. A lot. 
  • Think of it like this: insulation is your sweater. Air sealing is zipping up your jacket. Both are good. Together, they’re great.
    
    

• Rebates are available. 
  • Energize CT offers rebates and sometimes even 75% coverage for audits and weatherization. Here’s the link.
    
    

• Older homes in CT are often wildly under-insulated. 
  • Especially if they were built before 1980. Some wall cavities are literally empty.
    
    

❌ Myths

• “Insulation only helps me in the winter.” 
  • Nope. It helps in summer too by keeping heat out and ensuring more efficient AC use. Ever been in an attic in July? If so, you get it.
    
    

• “If I have insulation, I’m good.”‍
  • Maybe. But maybe not. A lot of homes have insulation that’s:
    • Just not enough
    • Poorly installed
    • Degraded over time
      
      

• “It’s too expensive to be worth it.” 
  • With rebates and long-term savings, insulation’s one of the few home upgrades that pays for itself—and then keeps paying.
    
    

🤷‍♂️ We Just Don’t Know

• Exactly how fast your home will pay it back.‍
  • We need to see the place. Every home is different. We’ll look at square footage, current insulation levels, energy bills, and then we can estimate savings and rebates.
    
    

• How much longer Connecticut winters will get.‍
  • Between polar vortexes and mild Decembers, who knows. But insulation helps regardless.
    
    

• Why builders didn’t insulate better in the '60s and '70s.‍
  • Your guess is as good as ours. Maybe they just loved single-pane windows and cold feet.
    
    

Final Thoughts

Insulation’s not flashy. It’s not fun to talk about at parties (...actually it is for us). But in terms of bang-for-your-buck, it’s one of the best home improvements you can invest in.

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Here’s what you get:

• Real savings
  
  
• Real comfort
  
  
• A more efficient, quieter, and healthier home
  
  

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If you’re in Connecticut, you’ve got access to generous incentives. We’ll even help you apply for them. So if your house is cold, drafty, or your energy bills are making you sweat—get in touch.

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👉 Get in touch with Nealon Insulation. We’ll take a look, give you honest feedback, and let you know if it makes sense. No pressure. No BS. Just real talk, real results, and real insulation.

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Let’s start with this: insulation isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s one of the most cost-effective ways to cut down on your energy bills year-round. Whether you’re battling a New England nor’easter or a brutal summer heatwave, your insulation is doing the quiet, thankless job of keeping conditioned air where it belongs: inside your home.‍

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But how does it actually save you money? Let’s break it down.

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1. Insulation Slows Down Heat Transfer

Heat moves in and out of your house constantly—through walls, ceilings, floors, and anywhere it finds a weak spot. This process is called heat transfer, and without good insulation, your home is bleeding energy like a sieve. In winter, warm air escapes. In summer, heat pours in. Insulation acts like a barrier, slowing that process down so your HVAC system doesn’t have to work overtime to keep up.

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Less work for your furnace or AC = less energy used = lower utility bills.

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2. Insulation Keeps Temperatures Stable

Ever notice how some rooms feel freezing while others are sweltering? That’s usually a sign of poor insulation or air leaks. Ideally, rooms in the same house shouldn’t differ by more than 2–3°F. If you're seeing 5 degrees or more between rooms, it’s a red flag—your home likely has insulation gaps or airflow issues.

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When you insulate properly—especially your attic, walls, and basement—you even out those swings and stop playing thermostat whack-a-mole. Want to layer your savings? Combine good insulation with simple, low-cost hacks to stay warm in winter—like these 10 free or cheap ways to stay warm.

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3. It Reduces HVAC Runtime

Your heating and cooling systems cycle on and off all day. But the better your home holds its temperature, the less often those systems need to run. Over time, this adds up to serious savings—not just on energy, but also on maintenance and equipment lifespan. Well-insulated homes put less wear and tear on HVAC units, meaning fewer breakdowns and a longer system life.

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4. It's a One-Time Investment That Pays Off For Years

Insulation isn’t a band-aid fix—it’s a long-term upgrade. Whether you’re using spray foam, batts, or blown-in cellulose, you’re making a one-time investment that keeps paying you back every month.

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And if you’re looking to insulate finished walls without tearing everything apart, we’ve got a method for that too. It’s called drill and plug, and it lets us dense-pack cellulose insulation from the outside of your home—sealing up energy loss while leaving everything looking untouched. It’s one of our go-to moves for older homes with empty wall cavities.

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The Bottom Line

If your energy bills are creeping higher and your home still doesn’t feel comfortable, your insulation might be the culprit. Fixing it won’t just make your house cozier—it’ll put money back in your pocket every single month.

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Want to see what better insulation could do for your home?
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👉 Get in touch with Nealon Insulation. We’ll take a look, give it to you straight, and help you lower your bills the smart way.

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Most people think insulation is the whole game when it comes to making a home energy-efficient. It’s a big part, sure—but if your house is leaking air like a drafty old barn, insulation alone isn’t going to cut it. That’s where air sealing comes in.

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Think of insulation like a warm winter coat. Now imagine that coat has the zipper wide open and the wind’s whipping through. Not so cozy, right? Air sealing is the zipper. It keeps the conditioned air inside where it belongs—and the outside air out.

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What Is Air Sealing?

Air sealing is the process of closing up all the tiny gaps, cracks, and holes in your home’s building envelope. These leaks might be around windows, doors, plumbing penetrations, attic hatches, recessed lights, or even your foundation. You don’t see them—but your energy bill sure feels them.

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If you’ve ever walked into a room and it feels 10 degrees colder than the rest of the house, chances are you’ve got air leaks. Same goes for musty smells, moisture problems, or wild swings in your heating and cooling bills.

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Why Air Sealing Matters

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💸 Lower Energy Bills

Air leaks are one of the biggest causes of energy loss in the average home. Heated or cooled air escapes through those gaps, and your HVAC system has to work harder (and burn more money) to keep up. Air sealing can cut heating and cooling costs by up to 20% in some homes.

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Want to understand how heat actually escapes your house? Check out our blog on How Does My Home Lose or Gain Heat?

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🌡️ More Consistent Temperatures

Ever notice that one room is always too hot in the summer or freezing in the winter? Air leaks are usually to blame. When you seal those gaps, airflow becomes controlled and consistent—no more temperature rollercoasters from room to room.

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It’s especially important in the attic—one of the biggest culprits for leaks.

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Our blog on blown-in insulation can help you identify the right insulation for your attic.

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💧 Moisture Control

Air leaks don’t just move air—they move moisture. In the winter, warm indoor air rises and escapes through cracks in the attic. That moisture-laden air hits cold surfaces and condenses, which can lead to mold, mildew, and rot. Air sealing helps keep moisture where it belongs—and keeps your home healthier.

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🧊 Works Hand-in-Hand with Insulation

Insulation slows down the transfer of heat, but it can’t stop moving air. That’s why insulation without air sealing is like buying an expensive cooler with the lid cracked open. You need both.

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If your home feels drafty or your bills are creeping up, it could be a sign your insulation isn’t pulling its weight either. Here’s How to Tell If Your Home Is Under-Insulated

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What’s the Air Sealing Process Actually Like?

Glad you asked.

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Before we blow in any cellulose, we suit up and hunt down the leaks. Because once you’ve got 14 inches of fluffy insulation in the attic, going back to plug those gaps is like diving into a ball pit with a caulk gun—only sweatier and way less fun. Unless you enjoy spelunking through cellulose, seal it first.

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🔧 What We Use

Our go-to is polyurethane insulating foam applied with a standard foam gun. It expands to fill cracks, cures fast, and sticks like a champ. Around wiring, pipes, light fixtures, and top plates? That’s where it shines.

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And in basements—especially along the sill plate—we break out the big guns: rodent-resistant foam. This stuff is dense, durable, and keeps out everything from cold drafts to overly curious critters.

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🔍 Where We Look

In the Attic:

• Gaps between drywall and top plates
• Around recessed lights and light fixtures
• Plumbing stacks
• HVAC duct penetrations
• Chimney chases
• Attic hatches

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In the Basement or Crawlspace:

• All along the perimeter sill and rim joists
• Plumbing, electrical, and dryer vent exits
• Gaps where concrete meets wood framing

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These are the usual suspects. Seal them up and you’re halfway to a tighter, more efficient home.

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Ready to Seal Up Your Home?

At Nealon Insulation, we don’t just stuff walls with insulation and call it a day. We take a full-building approach, starting with air sealing the key trouble spots. It’s one of the best bang-for-your-buck upgrades you can make to improve comfort, cut energy bills, and keep your home protected year-round.

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👉 Contact Nealon Insulation to schedule an energy assessment and see where your home is leaking energy. We’ll get you zipped up tight.

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So, you’ve got old insulation that needs to go. Maybe you’re renovating, maybe there was a leak, maybe a raccoon made itself a cozy little condo up there (don’t laugh—it happens). Whatever the reason, removing insulation isn’t rocket science—but it is one of those jobs that can go sideways real fast if you’re not prepared.

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Let’s walk through what you need to know to remove insulation safely, efficiently, and without turning your house into a dust storm.

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First Things First: Why Are You Removing It?

If your insulation is wet, moldy, critter-infested, or just plain useless, you’re doing the right thing. Damaged insulation doesn’t just tank your home’s efficiency—it can affect your indoor air quality too. And in Connecticut, where winter means business, that matters.

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Know What You're Dealing With

There are three big players in the insulation world, and each one needs to be handled a little differently:

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1. Fiberglass Batts or Rolls

These are the pink or yellow fluffy mats stuffed between your ceiling joists or wall studs. Common in older CT homes. They're easy to remove—but itchy as hell.

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How to remove it:

• Suit up: gloves, goggles, long sleeves, and a quality mask (fiberglass is no joke if it gets in your lungs).
• Roll it up and bag it. Gently. Try not to stir up dust.
• Use a HEPA vac to clean up leftover fibers.

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2. Cellulose Insulation

Blown-in gray stuff made from recycled paper. We use it all the time in CT shoreline homes because it’s eco-friendly and great at sealing tiny gaps—but if it gets wet or moldy, it clumps up and needs to go.

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How to remove it:

• Rent a high-powered vacuum from an insulation contractor or equipment rental place.
• Suck it out from the attic or wall cavities. (Yes, it's loud. Yes, it's dusty. Yes, it works.)
• Bag the debris in contractor-grade bags. It gets heavy, fast.

Mike’s Tip: Once removed, this is a great opportunity to air seal your attic before putting new insulation in. Think of it as a fresh start.

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3. Spray Foam Insulation

This one’s the tough guy. Closed-cell spray foam is basically glued to your house. It’s amazing stuff when installed right—but if you have to remove it (say, during a renovation or due to water damage), it’s going to take some elbow grease.

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How to remove it:

• Use a reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool to cut it out in chunks.
• Chisel and scrape any stubborn spots.
• Don’t go crazy—sometimes it’s better to replace the whole panel or board it’s attached to.

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Safety First, Always

Whether you're in Branford, Guilford, or somewhere up in West Hartford, remember: insulation removal stirs up dust, allergens, and sometimes worse. Mold spores, rodent droppings, old construction debris… it’s not a clean job.

• Ventilate the area if possible.
• Don’t skimp on PPE—N95 or better masks are a must.
• Seal off nearby rooms with plastic sheeting to keep mess contained.

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Should You DIY It?

If it’s a small area, sure—have at it. But if you're looking at a whole attic or dealing with water or pest damage, it’s worth calling in the pros. At Nealon Insulation, we’ve safely removed insulation from homes all over Connecticut, from old shoreline cottages to newer builds. We bring the vacuums, safety gear, and most importantly—the experience to do it right.

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Final Thought

Removing insulation isn’t glamorous, but it is the first step toward better energy efficiency, comfort, and peace of mind. Do it right, and you set your home up for decades of toasty winters and cool summers.

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Need help removing insulation in Connecticut?

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👉 Contact Nealon Insulation today and let’s talk about your project. We’ll bring the tools, the crew, and the “don’t-worry-we’ve-seen-worse” attitude.

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Let’s get one thing out of the way real quick: water is great for a lot of things—gardens, coffee, post-game showers—but it’s not great for insulation.

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Wet insulation is like a soggy sandwich: unappetizing, ineffective, and a potential breeding ground for nasty stuff you don’t want in your walls.

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So what do you do if your insulation gets wet?

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First, don’t panic. This happens more often than you’d think—burst pipes, roof leaks, basement flooding, a freak Nor’easter blowing sideways rain into your attic vents—you name it, we’ve seen it. And trust me, there’s a right way to handle it depending on the type of insulation in your home.

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1. Spray Foam Insulation

What to know:
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If you’ve got spray foam insulation—open or closed cell—you’re probably in better shape than most. Closed-cell is the superhero here: it’s highly water-resistant, mold-resistant, and acts like a shield. We’ve seen cases where water hit the foam and was actually diverted away from the cavity, like it hit a raincoat.

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But—and this is important—just because spray foam doesn’t absorb water doesn’t mean your studs and sheathing don’t. If water gets trapped behind foam with nowhere to go, you’ve still got a problem. That’s why proper ventilation and airflow matter, even with foam.

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What to do:

• Inspect the area to make sure no water is pooling or trapped behind the foam.
• If it’s closed-cell and the structure is sound, you’re likely good to go.
• Open-cell is a bit more breathable and can retain moisture—if it’s been saturated for a while, it may need to come out.

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Mike’s take:
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If I had a nickel for every time closed-cell spray foam saved someone from a full-gut remediation job, I’d have at least enough for a steak dinner and a bottle of decent red. But don’t get cocky—foam still needs airflow to let framing dry if something does go wrong.

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2. Cellulose Insulation

What to know:
Cellulose is made from recycled paper and treated with fire- and mold-resistant chemicals. That gets it a long way—but yeah, it’s still paper. And paper does soak up water.

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Here’s the kicker though: when properly vented and installed, cellulose can wick moisture and dry out. It’s breathable. That’s one of the key reasons we like it—it manages moisture instead of trapping it. But that only works when the moisture is minor and the conditions are right.

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What to do:

• If cellulose is fully saturated, especially in a wall or ceiling cavity, it usually needs to be removed.
• Small damp spots might be salvageable if caught early and thoroughly dried—but don’t roll the dice unless you know airflow is solid and drying is happening fast.

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Mike’s take:
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We once opened up a wall in a coastal home where the vent flashing failed. The cellulose was soaked—mashed potatoes. Smelled like low tide in August. We vacuumed it out, dried the cavity with fans, reinsulated properly, and the homeowner went from worried sick to sleeping like a baby.

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Moral of the story? Cellulose is great—but it can’t work miracles if it’s left to stew.

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3. Fiberglass Insulation

What to know:

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Fiberglass doesn’t absorb water like cellulose does—but it holds onto it like a wet sponge. And while the glass itself won’t mold, the paper backing and surrounding wood sure will. If fiberglass gets wet and sits too long, it basically becomes useless. No R-value, no comfort, and a potential mold farm.

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What to do:

• If fiberglass batts are soaked, remove them—especially if they’ve been wet for more than 48 hours.
• If it’s loose-fill fiberglass and just mildly damp (like a light attic leak), you might be able to dry and fluff it—but be 100% sure there’s no hidden moisture or mold risk.

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Mike’s take:
Had a job in Guilford where a raccoon popped off a roof vent and a storm soaked the attic. By the time the homeowner noticed, we were replacing not just the insulation but the roof decking and half the attic structure.
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Lesson: Moisture waits for no one. Catch it fast, fix it faster.

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The Bottom Line

If your insulation gets wet:

• Act quickly – Time is the enemy.
• Inspect thoroughly – Don’t assume “just a little damp” means it’s fine.
• Replace when in doubt – Especially cellulose and fiberglass.
• Fix the root cause – Insulation isn’t a water detector. It’s supposed to keep you warm, not soak up storms.

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And if you’re not sure what you’re dealing with—give us a shout. We’ll take a look, tell you the truth (no fluff), and help get your home sealed up the right way.

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👉 Contact Nealon Insulation. We’ve been keeping Connecticut homes dry, tight, and comfortable since 1977. Let’s keep yours that way, too.

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