Why Is My Insulation Not Working? Common Problems & Solutions
You crank the heat and still need three blankets. You blast the AC and your second floor still feels like the inside of a bread oven. Meanwhile, your energy bill looks like a car payment.
So you’re asking: "What the heck is going on? I have insulation. Why isn't it working?"
Good question. Insulation should keep your home comfortable year-round. But just having it doesn’t mean it’s doing its job. Like anything else in a house, it can be installed wrong, wear out, or just not be the right fit for where you live.
Let’s break down the most common reasons insulation underperforms—and how to fix them before winter (or summer) bites back.
1. Not Enough Insulation (a.k.a. Your R-Value’s on Life Support)
The problem: You might have insulation, but not enough of it. It’s like wearing a windbreaker in January—technically clothing, but not keeping you warm.
Why it matters: Insulation works by resisting heat transfer. Not enough R-value = heat leaks out in winter, seeps in during summer.
The fix:
Here’s what Connecticut homes should have:
- Attic: R-49 to R-60
- Walls: R-13 to R-21
- Floors: R-25 to R-30
- Basements/Crawl Spaces: R-10 to R-19
If you’re way below those numbers, it’s time to bulk up. We recommend blown-in cellulose insulation—it packs tighter, performs better, and actually stays where it’s supposed to.
2. Your Insulation’s Old and Saggy
The problem: Insulation doesn’t last forever. Over time, it compresses, shifts, settles—or just plain gives up.
Why it matters:
- Fiberglass batts can slump or fall out of place.
- Older blown-in fiberglass settles like sand in an hourglass.
- Even old cellulose can sag if it was installed before modern treatments.
The fix:
Have your attic checked. If your insulation looks like a pancake instead of a fluffy cake, it’s not doing much. We typically top off or replace with modern cellulose—it stays in place better and keeps your R-value high.
3. You’ve Got Air Leaks Everywhere
The problem: Even the best insulation can’t stop air that’s sneaking around it. Drafts around windows, doors, can lights, attic hatches—these are the usual suspects.
Why it matters:
- In winter: warm air escapes, cold air creeps in.
- In summer: your cooled air leaks out like a deflating balloon.
The fix:
- Weatherstrip doors and windows
- Seal attic penetrations before insulating
- Use spray foam or rigid foam to block bigger gaps (pipes, vents, etc.)
- Pro tip: Never insulate before you air seal. That’s just putting a blanket over a broken window.
4. Moisture Is Wrecking Your Insulation
The problem: If your attic or basement has poor ventilation, leaks, or condensation, you could have wet insulation.
Why it matters:
- Wet fiberglass is basically useless.
- Spray foam can trap moisture—mold loves that.
- Moisture flattens insulation and kills your R-value.
The fix:
- Choose cellulose—it handles moisture better than fiberglass.
- Improve attic or crawl space ventilation.
- Fix any roof leaks, flashing gaps, or foundation cracks ASAP.
5. It Was Installed Like a Weekend DIY Project (a bad one)
The problem: We see this all the time—gaps, compressions, missed spots. Doesn’t matter how good the material is if it’s not installed right.
Why it matters:
- Gaps = heat loss
- Compressed batts = reduced R-value
- No air sealing = insulation gets bypassed completely
The fix:
- Hire pros (like us). Seriously. It matters.
- We blow in dense-pack cellulose that fills every nook, cranny, and gap.
- We don’t just dump insulation and leave—we air seal first, every time.
6. Rodents Turned Your Attic into an Airbnb
The problem: Mice, squirrels, and raccoons love insulation. It’s warm, it’s soft, and they don’t care if it’s supposed to keep your energy bills low.
Why it matters:
- They tear up your insulation
- Their waste contaminates it
- They create airflow gaps and invite mold
The fix:
- Seal up entry points (soffits, vents, roof lines)
- Use borate-treated cellulose, which pests hate
- Remove and replace any contaminated insulation
7. You Picked the Wrong Type of Insulation
The problem: Not all insulation is built for New England. What works in Arizona doesn’t always work here.
Why it matters:
- Fiberglass batts leak air and settle
- Spray foam can trap moisture and costs a fortune to fix if things go south
- Rigid foam works in basements, but not great in attics
The fix:
Go with blown-in cellulose for most applications. It checks all the boxes:
- High R-value
- Pest-resistant
- Moisture-tolerant
- Fills every gap
- Made for our climate
How We Can Help (Without the Sales Fluff)
At Nealon Insulation, we’ve been fixing insulation problems since bell bottoms were a thing (1977, to be exact). Whether your attic needs a full rehab or just a tune-up, we know what works in Connecticut homes.
✅ Free insulation inspections
✅ Specialists in blown-in cellulose
✅ EnergizeCT rebates to help you save
✅ No pressure—just straight answers
Bottom line: If your insulation isn’t working, there’s always a reason. Let’s find it—and fix it right.
📞 Give us a call or book a free inspection. We’ll get your home feeling like home again.
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Simple Ways to Shrink Your Home's Carbon Footprint
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Here are a few practical ideas to get started:
1. Ditch the Incandescents
If your home still has lightbulbs that heat up like stovetops, it’s time to upgrade. LED bulbs use up to 80% less energy and last a lot longer. They’re like the efficient little overachievers of the lighting world.
2. Be Smart (Thermostat-Wise)
Smart thermostats aren’t just a gimmick—they actually help. You can program them to run the heat or A/C only when you need it, saving you money and emissions in the process. Some even learn your habits and adjust automatically.
3. Wash Cold, Line Dry
Washing clothes in cold water gets the job done just fine 90% of the time. Combine that with skipping the dryer and using a clothesline (yes, they still exist) and you just cut down a big chunk of your home's energy use.
4. Use Power Strips (And Turn ‘Em Off)
Your TV, cable box, computer—they all sip electricity even when turned "off." Use smart power strips or just flip them off at the end of the day to stop the phantom drain. No seance required.
5. Choose Efficient Appliances
Replacing that 90s-era fridge? Look for Energy Star-rated appliances. They’re engineered to use less juice and still do the job right. Bonus: many come with rebates.
6. Cut Down on Meat (Sometimes)
No need to go full tofu, but swapping in one or two meatless meals a week can lower your household emissions. Beans and pasta never broke the bank.
7. Fix Drafts and Air Leaks
Those little gaps around windows, doors, and attic hatches are like leaky faucets for energy. Seal ‘em up and your HVAC system won’t have to work overtime.
8. Insulate the Right Way
Now let’s talk insulation—because this is the stuff people don’t think about until they’re freezing or sweating in their own homes.
Good insulation helps your home hold its temperature longer, which means less energy needed for heating and cooling. Less energy means fewer emissions. That cellulose we pack into walls, attics, and crawlspaces? It’s often made from recycled material and has a smaller footprint than most building products.
So yes—while we might be a little biased here at Nealon Insulation, tightening up your home is one of the smartest, most impactful ways to reduce your footprint long-term.
Final Thought
You don’t need to be perfect to make progress. Just a few changes around the house can make a real difference—for your utility bills and for the planet.
👉 Want help making your home more energy efficient? Contact us and let’s talk insulation that works as hard as you do.
How Much Is 1,000 Sq Ft of Insulation?
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
We’ll break it down by type—fiberglass, cellulose, and spray foam—and explain what drives the price up (or down).
🧱 Fiberglass Insulation: The Basic, Budget-Friendly Option
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $3,000
Fiberglass is like the plain bagel of insulation: dependable, affordable, and everywhere. It’s often used in new construction and attics where you have open access to joists. If you're not battling extreme drafts or moisture issues, this can be a solid, cost-effective choice.
What affects fiberglass pricing:
- Open vs closed access (attic = easy, walls = more labor)
- Batts vs blown-in
- Labor needs—is it a clean install or a crawlspace contortionist job?
🌾 Cellulose Insulation: The Comfort Workhorse
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $4,000
Cellulose insulation is what we specialize in here at Nealon. It's dense, fire-resistant, pest-resistant, and made from recycled materials. It performs great in older homes, especially for filling wall cavities without tearing your house apart.
Why the price varies:
- Dense-packing walls vs attic blow-in (walls take more time and skill)
- Access issues—we may need to drill, patch, or work around tough angles
- Depth of insulation—more R-value means more material
🧊 Spray Foam Insulation: The High-Performance MVP
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $3,000 to $5,000+
Spray foam is the insulation equivalent of a triple-espresso: powerful, airtight, and overachieving. It both insulates and air seals in one shot. But it’s more expensive upfront, and not always necessary in every application.
What bumps up the price:
- Open-cell vs closed-cell (closed-cell is more expensive and higher R-value)
- Ventilation concerns—you may need mechanical ventilation if you're sealing super tight
- Prep and protection—spray foam needs careful installation to avoid overspray or damage
📈 What Else Affects the Price of Insulation?
Regardless of material, there are a few wildcard factors that can change your final number:
- Access and layout: Vaulted ceilings, narrow crawlspaces, or complicated rooflines = more labor.
- Demo or removal: If we need to rip out old insulation, that adds to the bill.
- Code requirements: Want to hit energy code or qualify for rebates? You may need higher R-values.
- Local rebates: In Connecticut, EnergizeCT rebates can significantly lower your out-of-pocket cost—especially for cellulose and spray foam.
💡 So What Should You Expect to Pay?
If you're in Connecticut and looking to insulate 1,000 sq ft, the sweet spot for most homes falls between $2,000 and $4,000. Think of that as the range for long-term comfort and energy savings.
Want a real number for your actual house? We’ll come check it out and give you a quote with no pressure and no fluff. Just real answers from real insulation nerds.
👉 Let’s talk insulation. Contact the Connecitcut insulation team.
10 Free or Cheap Ways to Keep Your Connecticut Home Cooler This Summer
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
1. Shut the blinds like it’s your job
Seriously. About 30% of unwanted heat comes from your windows. Keep blinds and curtains closed during the hottest parts of the day—especially on south- and west-facing windows. Blackout curtains? Even better.
2. Box fans + window trick = poor man’s AC
Point a box fan out the window in the evening to blow hot air out while you crack a window on the cooler side of the house. It creates a little air current that pulls cool air in and shoves hot air out.
3. Switch your ceiling fans to “summer” mode
Yes, they have a summer setting. There’s usually a little switch near the base. Flip it so the fan spins counterclockwise—this pushes air down and creates a cooling breeze instead of just stirring the soup.
4. Ditch the incandescent bulbs
Old-school bulbs run hot. Swap 'em out for LEDs and your rooms stay a few degrees cooler. Plus, it cuts your electric bill. Win-win.
5. Cook less—or cook outside
Using the oven or stove heats up your kitchen like a pizza shop. Grill outside, eat more cold foods, or prep meals early in the day. Your house (and your face) will thank you.
6. Seal the air leaks
You know those little cracks around windows, doors, and basement bulkheads? They’re like VIP entry for hot air. Caulk, weatherstripping, and a little bit of foam sealant can go a long way. Not sure where the leaks are? We can help air seal your home.
7. Close off unused rooms
No need to cool the guest room your in-laws use twice a year. Shut the doors to rooms you’re not in—this keeps the cooler air circulating where you actually need it.
8. Use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans
These fans aren’t just for smells and steam—they pull hot air and humidity right out of the house. Use 'em during and after cooking or showering to help the whole place cool down faster.
9. Add some attic insulation
Yep, insulation isn’t just a winter thing. A poorly insulated attic turns into a giant heat battery that radiates down into your living space all day long. Dense-packed cellulose can help keep that heat out in the summer and in during the winter.
10. Schedule an energy audit
If your home feels like a sauna every summer, there’s a reason. A free or low-cost energy audit (like the ones offered through EnergizeCT) can pinpoint the exact spots your house is losing the fight against heat—and help you qualify for rebates to fix them.
Why Insulation Helps You Run the A/C Less
Think of insulation like a cooler—just like it keeps the cold in and the heat out, your home can do the same when it’s properly insulated.
Without insulation (or with old, crusty, half-bald insulation), all that nice cold air your A/C is working so hard to produce? It slips right out through your attic, walls, and basement like water through a colander. And the hot summer air outside? That stuff seeps in like an uninvited guest.
Add proper insulation—especially in your attic and walls—and suddenly, your A/C doesn’t have to work nearly as hard. You cool the house down once… and it stays cool. That means:
- Lower energy bills
- Less wear and tear on your HVAC system
- More consistent comfort (no more sweatbox upstairs and meat locker downstairs)
Bottom line: good insulation gives your air conditioning a break—and your wallet one, too.
👉 Want to make your home cooler, quieter, and cheaper to run this summer? Let’s make a plan.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.