Understanding Energy Code Compliance: Performance Path vs. Prescriptive Path
Look—if you’re building a house in Connecticut, you’ve got to meet energy code. That’s non-negotiable.
But here’s where it gets interesting: there are two different ways to hit those energy targets. One’s like painting by numbers. The other’s more like jazz. And which one you choose can either make your life easier—or way more expensive.
Let’s break it down like you’re on the job site with a coffee in hand.
Option 1: The Prescriptive Path (a.k.a. The Rule-Follower’s Route)
This one’s the “just check the boxes” approach. You follow a fixed set of rules—insulation R-values, window ratings, HVAC specs—and you don’t color outside the lines. No trade-offs. No modeling. Just do exactly what the book says.
What it looks like:
- Stick to the IECC’s list of requirements
- Use X inches of insulation in the attic, Y type of windows, Z HVAC efficiency
- No flexibility. Every component has to meet or exceed code
- It’s easy to inspect, and town officials love it because there’s nothing to calculate
When it works:
- Basic builds
- Tight budgets
- When you’re not doing anything fancy with design or layout
Downside?
You might end up spending more on materials than you need to. There's no room to make smart trade-offs.
Option 2: The Performance Path (a.k.a. The Smarter, Custom Route)
This is for folks who want flexibility without sacrificing performance. Instead of blindly following the checklist, you build an energy model of the home and prove it performs just as well—or better.
How it works:
- Bring in a HERS rater to model the home’s predicted energy use
- Play with trade-offs—like using a high-efficiency HVAC so you can ease up on insulation in certain spots
- Use real data (climate, design, materials) to show your plan meets the code
When it’s worth it:
- Custom homes
- Unique layouts or design goals
- You want to balance comfort, cost, and creativity
- You’re aiming for rebates or certifications (like Energy Star or Zero Energy Ready)
So How Does This Energy Modeling Thing Actually Work?
Let’s say you’re using the Performance Path. Here’s what goes into that energy model:
- Insulation types and thicknesses
- Window and door specs
- HVAC system efficiency
- Air sealing and ventilation
- Any renewables (solar, heat pumps, etc.)
- Actual Connecticut weather data
Two ways to slice it:
- Envelope Trade-Off Method – Over-insulate one area, ease up in another
- Whole-House Performance Method – Balance everything across the board: insulation, HVAC, lighting, etc.
Either way, you prove the home performs at—or above—the IECC baseline. Boom. You’re compliant, but without the handcuffs.
Energy Points: How You Earn ’Em
Both paths let you rack up energy efficiency “points,” but they score it differently:
Performance Path:
- Points for total projected energy savings vs. baseline
- Big picture thinking
Prescriptive Path:
- Points for specific upgrades—better HVAC, more insulation, tighter ducts, etc.
- Checkbox system
Same goes for water efficiency:
- Performance Path: Modeled using the Water Rating Index (WRI)
- Prescriptive Path: Earn points for low-flow fixtures, smart irrigation, efficient appliances
Why Most Pros Are Moving Toward the Performance Path
Let’s be real: it takes more planning up front, but the Performance Path gives you more control, more efficiency, and often more savings. Here’s why builders are going that route:
- 💰 Cost-effective: Use money where it matters—don’t overspend where you don’t need to
- 📐 Design freedom: Build what you want, not just what the code says
- 🏡 Real-world comfort: Better air sealing, better performance, lower bills
- 📉 Long-term payoff: Homeowners get comfort and efficiency for years
Some towns in CT are even nudging builders toward Performance-only compliance because they know it works better. It’s where the industry is heading.
Nealon Insulation: We Help You Nail This
Whether you’re building custom or cookie-cutter, Nealon Insulation knows how to make sure your insulation plan works—and passes inspection.
Here’s what we bring to the table:
✅ Energy code expertise (we’ve been at this since 1977)
✅ Blown-in cellulose insulation that crushes fiberglass in performance
✅ HERS rater partnerships if you want to go the performance route
✅ Guidance on EnergizeCT rebates and how to qualify
Let’s get your project dialed in—no guesswork, no headaches, no missed inspections.
📞 Give us a call. We’ll walk you through which path makes sense for your build—and how to make it airtight from day one.
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Simple Ways to Shrink Your Home's Carbon Footprint
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Here are a few practical ideas to get started:
1. Ditch the Incandescents
If your home still has lightbulbs that heat up like stovetops, it’s time to upgrade. LED bulbs use up to 80% less energy and last a lot longer. They’re like the efficient little overachievers of the lighting world.
2. Be Smart (Thermostat-Wise)
Smart thermostats aren’t just a gimmick—they actually help. You can program them to run the heat or A/C only when you need it, saving you money and emissions in the process. Some even learn your habits and adjust automatically.
3. Wash Cold, Line Dry
Washing clothes in cold water gets the job done just fine 90% of the time. Combine that with skipping the dryer and using a clothesline (yes, they still exist) and you just cut down a big chunk of your home's energy use.
4. Use Power Strips (And Turn ‘Em Off)
Your TV, cable box, computer—they all sip electricity even when turned "off." Use smart power strips or just flip them off at the end of the day to stop the phantom drain. No seance required.
5. Choose Efficient Appliances
Replacing that 90s-era fridge? Look for Energy Star-rated appliances. They’re engineered to use less juice and still do the job right. Bonus: many come with rebates.
6. Cut Down on Meat (Sometimes)
No need to go full tofu, but swapping in one or two meatless meals a week can lower your household emissions. Beans and pasta never broke the bank.
7. Fix Drafts and Air Leaks
Those little gaps around windows, doors, and attic hatches are like leaky faucets for energy. Seal ‘em up and your HVAC system won’t have to work overtime.
8. Insulate the Right Way
Now let’s talk insulation—because this is the stuff people don’t think about until they’re freezing or sweating in their own homes.
Good insulation helps your home hold its temperature longer, which means less energy needed for heating and cooling. Less energy means fewer emissions. That cellulose we pack into walls, attics, and crawlspaces? It’s often made from recycled material and has a smaller footprint than most building products.
So yes—while we might be a little biased here at Nealon Insulation, tightening up your home is one of the smartest, most impactful ways to reduce your footprint long-term.
Final Thought
You don’t need to be perfect to make progress. Just a few changes around the house can make a real difference—for your utility bills and for the planet.
👉 Want help making your home more energy efficient? Contact us and let’s talk insulation that works as hard as you do.
How Much Is 1,000 Sq Ft of Insulation?
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
We’ll break it down by type—fiberglass, cellulose, and spray foam—and explain what drives the price up (or down).
🧱 Fiberglass Insulation: The Basic, Budget-Friendly Option
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $3,000
Fiberglass is like the plain bagel of insulation: dependable, affordable, and everywhere. It’s often used in new construction and attics where you have open access to joists. If you're not battling extreme drafts or moisture issues, this can be a solid, cost-effective choice.
What affects fiberglass pricing:
- Open vs closed access (attic = easy, walls = more labor)
- Batts vs blown-in
- Labor needs—is it a clean install or a crawlspace contortionist job?
🌾 Cellulose Insulation: The Comfort Workhorse
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $4,000
Cellulose insulation is what we specialize in here at Nealon. It's dense, fire-resistant, pest-resistant, and made from recycled materials. It performs great in older homes, especially for filling wall cavities without tearing your house apart.
Why the price varies:
- Dense-packing walls vs attic blow-in (walls take more time and skill)
- Access issues—we may need to drill, patch, or work around tough angles
- Depth of insulation—more R-value means more material
🧊 Spray Foam Insulation: The High-Performance MVP
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $3,000 to $5,000+
Spray foam is the insulation equivalent of a triple-espresso: powerful, airtight, and overachieving. It both insulates and air seals in one shot. But it’s more expensive upfront, and not always necessary in every application.
What bumps up the price:
- Open-cell vs closed-cell (closed-cell is more expensive and higher R-value)
- Ventilation concerns—you may need mechanical ventilation if you're sealing super tight
- Prep and protection—spray foam needs careful installation to avoid overspray or damage
📈 What Else Affects the Price of Insulation?
Regardless of material, there are a few wildcard factors that can change your final number:
- Access and layout: Vaulted ceilings, narrow crawlspaces, or complicated rooflines = more labor.
- Demo or removal: If we need to rip out old insulation, that adds to the bill.
- Code requirements: Want to hit energy code or qualify for rebates? You may need higher R-values.
- Local rebates: In Connecticut, EnergizeCT rebates can significantly lower your out-of-pocket cost—especially for cellulose and spray foam.
💡 So What Should You Expect to Pay?
If you're in Connecticut and looking to insulate 1,000 sq ft, the sweet spot for most homes falls between $2,000 and $4,000. Think of that as the range for long-term comfort and energy savings.
Want a real number for your actual house? We’ll come check it out and give you a quote with no pressure and no fluff. Just real answers from real insulation nerds.
👉 Let’s talk insulation. Contact the Connecitcut insulation team.
10 Free or Cheap Ways to Keep Your Connecticut Home Cooler This Summer
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
1. Shut the blinds like it’s your job
Seriously. About 30% of unwanted heat comes from your windows. Keep blinds and curtains closed during the hottest parts of the day—especially on south- and west-facing windows. Blackout curtains? Even better.
2. Box fans + window trick = poor man’s AC
Point a box fan out the window in the evening to blow hot air out while you crack a window on the cooler side of the house. It creates a little air current that pulls cool air in and shoves hot air out.
3. Switch your ceiling fans to “summer” mode
Yes, they have a summer setting. There’s usually a little switch near the base. Flip it so the fan spins counterclockwise—this pushes air down and creates a cooling breeze instead of just stirring the soup.
4. Ditch the incandescent bulbs
Old-school bulbs run hot. Swap 'em out for LEDs and your rooms stay a few degrees cooler. Plus, it cuts your electric bill. Win-win.
5. Cook less—or cook outside
Using the oven or stove heats up your kitchen like a pizza shop. Grill outside, eat more cold foods, or prep meals early in the day. Your house (and your face) will thank you.
6. Seal the air leaks
You know those little cracks around windows, doors, and basement bulkheads? They’re like VIP entry for hot air. Caulk, weatherstripping, and a little bit of foam sealant can go a long way. Not sure where the leaks are? We can help air seal your home.
7. Close off unused rooms
No need to cool the guest room your in-laws use twice a year. Shut the doors to rooms you’re not in—this keeps the cooler air circulating where you actually need it.
8. Use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans
These fans aren’t just for smells and steam—they pull hot air and humidity right out of the house. Use 'em during and after cooking or showering to help the whole place cool down faster.
9. Add some attic insulation
Yep, insulation isn’t just a winter thing. A poorly insulated attic turns into a giant heat battery that radiates down into your living space all day long. Dense-packed cellulose can help keep that heat out in the summer and in during the winter.
10. Schedule an energy audit
If your home feels like a sauna every summer, there’s a reason. A free or low-cost energy audit (like the ones offered through EnergizeCT) can pinpoint the exact spots your house is losing the fight against heat—and help you qualify for rebates to fix them.
Why Insulation Helps You Run the A/C Less
Think of insulation like a cooler—just like it keeps the cold in and the heat out, your home can do the same when it’s properly insulated.
Without insulation (or with old, crusty, half-bald insulation), all that nice cold air your A/C is working so hard to produce? It slips right out through your attic, walls, and basement like water through a colander. And the hot summer air outside? That stuff seeps in like an uninvited guest.
Add proper insulation—especially in your attic and walls—and suddenly, your A/C doesn’t have to work nearly as hard. You cool the house down once… and it stays cool. That means:
- Lower energy bills
- Less wear and tear on your HVAC system
- More consistent comfort (no more sweatbox upstairs and meat locker downstairs)
Bottom line: good insulation gives your air conditioning a break—and your wallet one, too.
👉 Want to make your home cooler, quieter, and cheaper to run this summer? Let’s make a plan.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.