10 of the Most Common Questions About Insulation—Answered!
Let’s cut to it—insulation’s one of the best bang-for-your-buck upgrades you can make to your home. But most folks aren’t sure what type to get, where to put it, or how it actually affects the comfort of their place.
After 40+ years of crawling through attics and tearing out fiberglass that raccoons used as a five-star hotel, we’ve heard just about every insulation question there is. Here are ten of the big ones—with answers that won’t make your eyes glaze over.
1. How do I know if my home needs more insulation?
Easy. If your home was built before TikTok existed (or even MySpace), it probably needs more. But here are some dead giveaways:
✔️ Your energy bills could qualify for a college loan
✔️ It’s drafty in winter and sweltering in summer
✔️ Rooms feel like they belong to different time zones
✔️ Floors are cold enough to store meat on
✔️ You get ice dams on the roof every winter
If any of these sound familiar, an insulation upgrade will help. And fast.
2. What kind of insulation should I use?
There’s no one-size-fits-all answer here, but let’s break down the big three:
- Spray Foam Insulation – Great for air sealing, long-lasting, but pricey. Like “Yikes” pricey. And hard to remove if you change your mind later.
- Cellulose Insulation – Made from recycled newspaper, treated for fire and pests, and great for retrofits (this is our specialty). Blown-in cellulose seals up nooks and crannies better than your old caulking gun ever could.
- Fiberglass Insulation – Cheap, familiar, and still used a lot, but not the best at stopping airflow. Mice love it. We don’t.
Truth is, the best option depends on your home, budget, and goals. We do all three—so we’ll steer you straight, not just push what’s on the truck.
3. Will insulation really lower my energy bills?
Yes. And not by a couple bucks—up to 30%. Insulation keeps warm air in during winter and the hot stuff out in summer. That means your HVAC system gets to relax, and your wallet does too.
4. Where should I insulate?
Start at the top and work down:
✔️ Attic – #1 place for heat loss (and gain).
✔️ Walls – Especially if you live in a drafty old beauty from the 1920s.
✔️ Basement/crawl space – Helps keep floors warmer and stops cold air from creeping in.
✔️ Attached garage – If there’s a bedroom over it, trust me, you’ll feel the difference.
5. How long does insulation last?
A solid 20–30 years if it stays dry and untouched. Cellulose tends to age better than fiberglass, and spray foam sticks around forever (which is both a pro and a con, depending on who you ask). But water, pests, or poor installation can cut that lifespan way down.
6. What’s R-value, and does it really matter?
R-value measures how well insulation resists heat. Higher R = better insulation. But here’s the kicker—air sealing is just as important. You could have sky-high R-value, but if there are gaps, you're still heating the great outdoors.
That’s why dense-packed cellulose or closed-cell spray foam can give you a real edge. They insulate and seal air leaks.
7. Can insulation make my house quieter?
You bet. We’ve had clients call back and say they didn’t realize how loud the neighbor’s lawnmower was until it stopped waking them up. Insulation in your walls and attic cuts down outside noise and keeps things peaceful inside.
8. Will insulation keep pests out?
Some types, yes. Cellulose is treated with borate—a pest deterrent that mice and bugs hate. Fiberglass? Not so much. Rodents see that stuff as prime real estate. We’ve pulled out more mouse condos from fiberglass than I care to admit.
9. What does insulation cost?
Here’s the rough ballpark for Connecticut homes:
- Blown-in cellulose or fiberglass – $1.00–$1.50 per sq. ft.
- Spray foam – $2.00–$6.00 per sq. ft.
- Batt fiberglass (those pink rolls) – $0.50–$1.25 per sq. ft.
Don’t forget—if you live in CT, EnergizeCT rebates can shave a big chunk off those costs. We help homeowners access those programs all the time.
10. Should I insulate before replacing my HVAC?
Absolutely. If your insulation is lousy, you’re throwing good money after bad with that shiny new heat pump. Insulate first, and you might be able to downsize your HVAC—or run it less, save cash, and extend its life. That’s what we call a win-win-win.
Wrap-up
Insulation isn’t sexy. You don’t show it off at dinner parties. But you sure notice when it’s missing. Your home’s comfort, energy efficiency, and even resale value all depend on getting this stuff right.
Want to figure out what your home really needs? That’s what we’re here for. We’ve been insulating Connecticut homes since bell bottoms were in style (the first time). Reach out for a no-BS assessment and we’ll steer you right.
👉 Contact us here to answers for more insulation related questions!
Related Articles
Simple Ways to Shrink Your Home's Carbon Footprint
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Let’s get real. You don’t have to go off-grid, install a windmill, or start making your own soap to do right by the planet. There are everyday ways to cut down your home's carbon footprint without turning your life upside down.
Here are a few practical ideas to get started:
1. Ditch the Incandescents
If your home still has lightbulbs that heat up like stovetops, it’s time to upgrade. LED bulbs use up to 80% less energy and last a lot longer. They’re like the efficient little overachievers of the lighting world.
2. Be Smart (Thermostat-Wise)
Smart thermostats aren’t just a gimmick—they actually help. You can program them to run the heat or A/C only when you need it, saving you money and emissions in the process. Some even learn your habits and adjust automatically.
3. Wash Cold, Line Dry
Washing clothes in cold water gets the job done just fine 90% of the time. Combine that with skipping the dryer and using a clothesline (yes, they still exist) and you just cut down a big chunk of your home's energy use.
4. Use Power Strips (And Turn ‘Em Off)
Your TV, cable box, computer—they all sip electricity even when turned "off." Use smart power strips or just flip them off at the end of the day to stop the phantom drain. No seance required.
5. Choose Efficient Appliances
Replacing that 90s-era fridge? Look for Energy Star-rated appliances. They’re engineered to use less juice and still do the job right. Bonus: many come with rebates.
6. Cut Down on Meat (Sometimes)
No need to go full tofu, but swapping in one or two meatless meals a week can lower your household emissions. Beans and pasta never broke the bank.
7. Fix Drafts and Air Leaks
Those little gaps around windows, doors, and attic hatches are like leaky faucets for energy. Seal ‘em up and your HVAC system won’t have to work overtime.
8. Insulate the Right Way
Now let’s talk insulation—because this is the stuff people don’t think about until they’re freezing or sweating in their own homes.
Good insulation helps your home hold its temperature longer, which means less energy needed for heating and cooling. Less energy means fewer emissions. That cellulose we pack into walls, attics, and crawlspaces? It’s often made from recycled material and has a smaller footprint than most building products.
So yes—while we might be a little biased here at Nealon Insulation, tightening up your home is one of the smartest, most impactful ways to reduce your footprint long-term.
Final Thought
You don’t need to be perfect to make progress. Just a few changes around the house can make a real difference—for your utility bills and for the planet.
👉 Want help making your home more energy efficient? Contact us and let’s talk insulation that works as hard as you do.
How Much Is 1,000 Sq Ft of Insulation?
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
Let’s get straight to the point: insulating 1,000 square feet of space in your home can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $5,000 depending on the material you choose and the quirks of your house. It’s like asking how much a car costs—you’ll get a different answer depending on whether you want the base model or the decked-out version with heated seats and a moonroof.
We’ll break it down by type—fiberglass, cellulose, and spray foam—and explain what drives the price up (or down).
🧱 Fiberglass Insulation: The Basic, Budget-Friendly Option
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $3,000
Fiberglass is like the plain bagel of insulation: dependable, affordable, and everywhere. It’s often used in new construction and attics where you have open access to joists. If you're not battling extreme drafts or moisture issues, this can be a solid, cost-effective choice.
What affects fiberglass pricing:
- Open vs closed access (attic = easy, walls = more labor)
- Batts vs blown-in
- Labor needs—is it a clean install or a crawlspace contortionist job?
🌾 Cellulose Insulation: The Comfort Workhorse
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $2,000 to $4,000
Cellulose insulation is what we specialize in here at Nealon. It's dense, fire-resistant, pest-resistant, and made from recycled materials. It performs great in older homes, especially for filling wall cavities without tearing your house apart.
Why the price varies:
- Dense-packing walls vs attic blow-in (walls take more time and skill)
- Access issues—we may need to drill, patch, or work around tough angles
- Depth of insulation—more R-value means more material
🧊 Spray Foam Insulation: The High-Performance MVP
Cost for 1,000 sq ft:
👉 Around $3,000 to $5,000+
Spray foam is the insulation equivalent of a triple-espresso: powerful, airtight, and overachieving. It both insulates and air seals in one shot. But it’s more expensive upfront, and not always necessary in every application.
What bumps up the price:
- Open-cell vs closed-cell (closed-cell is more expensive and higher R-value)
- Ventilation concerns—you may need mechanical ventilation if you're sealing super tight
- Prep and protection—spray foam needs careful installation to avoid overspray or damage
📈 What Else Affects the Price of Insulation?
Regardless of material, there are a few wildcard factors that can change your final number:
- Access and layout: Vaulted ceilings, narrow crawlspaces, or complicated rooflines = more labor.
- Demo or removal: If we need to rip out old insulation, that adds to the bill.
- Code requirements: Want to hit energy code or qualify for rebates? You may need higher R-values.
- Local rebates: In Connecticut, EnergizeCT rebates can significantly lower your out-of-pocket cost—especially for cellulose and spray foam.
💡 So What Should You Expect to Pay?
If you're in Connecticut and looking to insulate 1,000 sq ft, the sweet spot for most homes falls between $2,000 and $4,000. Think of that as the range for long-term comfort and energy savings.
Want a real number for your actual house? We’ll come check it out and give you a quote with no pressure and no fluff. Just real answers from real insulation nerds.
👉 Let’s talk insulation. Contact the Connecitcut insulation team.
10 Free or Cheap Ways to Keep Your Connecticut Home Cooler This Summer
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
Connecticut summers don’t mess around. One day it’s a nice breeze off the Sound, the next it feels like your house turned into a baked potato. But before you crank the AC to the point where your electric bill starts sweating too, here are ten ways to beat the heat—without breaking the bank.
1. Shut the blinds like it’s your job
Seriously. About 30% of unwanted heat comes from your windows. Keep blinds and curtains closed during the hottest parts of the day—especially on south- and west-facing windows. Blackout curtains? Even better.
2. Box fans + window trick = poor man’s AC
Point a box fan out the window in the evening to blow hot air out while you crack a window on the cooler side of the house. It creates a little air current that pulls cool air in and shoves hot air out.
3. Switch your ceiling fans to “summer” mode
Yes, they have a summer setting. There’s usually a little switch near the base. Flip it so the fan spins counterclockwise—this pushes air down and creates a cooling breeze instead of just stirring the soup.
4. Ditch the incandescent bulbs
Old-school bulbs run hot. Swap 'em out for LEDs and your rooms stay a few degrees cooler. Plus, it cuts your electric bill. Win-win.
5. Cook less—or cook outside
Using the oven or stove heats up your kitchen like a pizza shop. Grill outside, eat more cold foods, or prep meals early in the day. Your house (and your face) will thank you.
6. Seal the air leaks
You know those little cracks around windows, doors, and basement bulkheads? They’re like VIP entry for hot air. Caulk, weatherstripping, and a little bit of foam sealant can go a long way. Not sure where the leaks are? We can help air seal your home.
7. Close off unused rooms
No need to cool the guest room your in-laws use twice a year. Shut the doors to rooms you’re not in—this keeps the cooler air circulating where you actually need it.
8. Use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans
These fans aren’t just for smells and steam—they pull hot air and humidity right out of the house. Use 'em during and after cooking or showering to help the whole place cool down faster.
9. Add some attic insulation
Yep, insulation isn’t just a winter thing. A poorly insulated attic turns into a giant heat battery that radiates down into your living space all day long. Dense-packed cellulose can help keep that heat out in the summer and in during the winter.
10. Schedule an energy audit
If your home feels like a sauna every summer, there’s a reason. A free or low-cost energy audit (like the ones offered through EnergizeCT) can pinpoint the exact spots your house is losing the fight against heat—and help you qualify for rebates to fix them.
Why Insulation Helps You Run the A/C Less
Think of insulation like a cooler—just like it keeps the cold in and the heat out, your home can do the same when it’s properly insulated.
Without insulation (or with old, crusty, half-bald insulation), all that nice cold air your A/C is working so hard to produce? It slips right out through your attic, walls, and basement like water through a colander. And the hot summer air outside? That stuff seeps in like an uninvited guest.
Add proper insulation—especially in your attic and walls—and suddenly, your A/C doesn’t have to work nearly as hard. You cool the house down once… and it stays cool. That means:
- Lower energy bills
- Less wear and tear on your HVAC system
- More consistent comfort (no more sweatbox upstairs and meat locker downstairs)
Bottom line: good insulation gives your air conditioning a break—and your wallet one, too.
👉 Want to make your home cooler, quieter, and cheaper to run this summer? Let’s make a plan.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.